Tag Archives: Guide to plant care

Winter Gardening: Cold-Hardy Vegetables

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CORVALLIS, Ore. –  Not ready to hang up your gloves and spade just yet?

The fearless gardener still has a chance to plant some cold-hardy vegetables to harvest next spring, said Jim Myers, plant breeder and researcher at Oregon State University. But don’t dawdle.

“Winter gardening is a risky business,” Myers said. “It may work one year with a mild winter but not another when the weather is more severe. If you plant some cold-hardy vegetables from mid-August to early October – depending on the crop – there’s a good likelihood you will produce something on the other end in the spring. They say farming is a gamble…some years more than others.”

Cold weather doesn’t kill these hardy plants; it simply slows their growth rate. For every rise of 18 degrees, growth rate doubles, but that guideline is only applicable for an air temperature range of 40 to 98 degrees, Myers said. If you plant cold-hardy vegetables from mid-August to early October, there is a chance they can mature by next spring if they survive in a vegetative state through the winter without reproducing.

According to Myers, the hardiest vegetables that can withstand heavy frost of air temperatures below 28 include: spinach, Walla Walla sweet onion, garlic, leeks, rhubarb, rutabaga, broccoli, kohlrabi, kale, cabbage, chicory, Brussels sprouts, corn salad, arugula, fava beans, radish, mustard, Austrian winter pea and turnip.

Semi-hardy vegetables that can withstand light frost of air temperatures in the range of 28 to 32 degrees include: beets, spring market carrots, parsnip, lettuce, chard, pea, Chinese cabbage, endive, radicchio, cauliflower, parsley and celery. For beets, spring market carrots and parsnips, the tops will die but the roots will tolerate lower temperatures.

Vegetables that contain the pigment anthocyanin, which gives them a vibrant red or purple color, are more resistant to rots caused by winter rains, Myers said. They include: purple-sprouting broccoli, Rosalind broccoli and purple kale.

If you live in an area of the state that gets prolonged snow cover, the fluffy white stuff acts as insulating mulch and warms the soil for these tough plants, Myers said.

No matter where you live in Oregon, “some of the worst problems we have in the winter are with rain rather than temperature, so protecting plants from the rain is quite helpful,” Myers said.

He recommends covering vegetables with high or low tunnels made from metal hoops and clear plastic, available from greenhouse supply companies. To protect plants, you can also use row covers or cloches. To warm the soil use mulch made from yard debris, cardboard or newspaper.

Cross your fingers and by next March you could be feasting on shelled, succulent fava beans seasoned with salt and lemon juice.

For more information on extending the gardening season, see the OSU Extension guides “Fall and Winter Vegetable Gardening in the Pacific Northwest” at http://bit.ly/OSU_FallGarden, “How to build your own raised bed cloche” at http://bit.ly/OSU_Cloche and “Garlic for the Home Garden” at http://bit.ly/OSU_Garlic. For an interactive map of Oregon’s first frost dates, go to the United States Department of Agriculture’s website at http://bit.ly/USDA_FirstFrostOR.

By Denise Ruttan denise.ruttan@oregonstate.edu

Source: Jim Myers  myersja@hort.oregonstate.edu

This story is online at http://bit.ly/OSU_Gardening2293

Cool-Season Crops

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Get a head start gardening in western Oregon with cool-season crops:

CORVALLIS, Ore. – Is this dry winter making you anxious to dig in the dirt again? There’s some good news if you garden in western Oregon and are an optimist.

Cool-season plants can be directly seeded into the ground in March in the Willamette Valley and southern Oregon , said Bob Reynolds, the Master Gardener coordinator for the Oregon State University Extension Service in Jackson and Josephine counties.

Cool-season crops include peas, arugula, carrots, cabbage, cilantro, fava beans, kale, kohlrabi, spinach, chard, turnips and lettuce.

Reynolds said he’s getting questions from the public already about when to start planting and how to tell when soil is ready.

“It depends on how experienced they are and how long they’ve lived here,” Reynolds said. “If they’ve lived here long, then they know a week of 60-degree days doesn’t mean spring is here. You may be anxious, but you hold yourself back.”

Reynolds recommends using a soil thermometer to check your soil temperature to decide whether to dig in. Soil rather than air temperature is the bellwether of whether to plant, he said. Seeds such as peas will germinate at an average soil temperature of about 50 degrees. Each species has different temperature requirements for germination. Generally, cool-season plants can survive air temperatures as cold as 28 degrees, Reynolds said.

Cover the new plantings with clear plastic to protect the soil from getting too saturated by rain.

Snow provides a nice incubator for new plants, acting as a blanket to keep the coldest air from penetrating, Reynolds said.

You can start hand weeding any time. Wait until plants have established themselves before fertilizing them.

As for gardeners in central and eastern Oregon , they’re going to have to be patient. Direct seeding for cool-season crops is not possible until late April or May, said Amy Jo Detweiler, an Extension horticulturist in Redmond . Seedlings can be transplanted in May and June.

“We tell people that March is a good time to clean and sharpen your garden tools and take care of your houseplants,” Detweiler said.

March is also a good time for high-desert gardeners to study seed catalogs and prepare seed tapes. Seed tapes are good for plants that require thinning, such as radishes. To make a seed tape, cut a 2- to 3- inch strip the length of a newspaper or use tissue paper strips, 2-3 inches wide and however long you need it, Detweiler said.

When it’s time to plant, bury the seed tapes in the soil at the seed appropriate depth and the tissue paper or newspaper will break down into the soil, Detweiler said.

By Denise Ruttan, Oregon State Extension
Source: Bob Reynolds, OSU & Amy Jo Detweiler, OSU
This article is online at http://bit.ly/OSU_Gardening2236

FEBRUARY: Getting the Greenhouse Ready

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It’s time to get your greenhouse ready for planting! Carlotta's Little Greenhouse

Start with cleaning the shelves using 1 part bleach mixed with 9 parts water.
Read eHow for tips on cleaning a small greenhouse:
http://www.ehow.com/small-greenhouse_care.html

Sterilize your trays & pots with this same bleach solution. Purchase or make your seedling mix (which is a soil-less mix), gather your plant labels & permanent markers and you’re ready to plant.

Read how to make your own soil-less seedling mix Organic Gardening website: http://organicgardening.about./seedstartingmix.htm

To calculate greenhouse planting start dates, check each seed packet and plant according to the instructions. Count back the weeks needed for seeds to grow and when you want them really for the garden club’s plant sale or to plant in your garden after the last frost.  Seeds typically need 8-12 weeks to grow. For example: AGC’s plant sale is May 11 2013, 12 weeks back from May 11th is February 16th, 8 weeks back is March 16th . Check your seed packets for start dates.

Below is a list of flowers you can start in your greenhouse in February: Petunias, Impatiens, Lobelia, Lupine, Echinacea, Rudbeckia, Coreopsis, Salvia, Lavender, Scabies, Delphinium, Pansies, Shasta daisy, Forget-me-nots, Gaillardias, and Nasturtiums.

You can also start: Cabbage, Broccoli, Cauliflower, Brussels Sprouts, Beets, Lettuce, Cilantro and Spinach seeds. It is recommended for larger vegetable seeds, like beets, to soak them 12 to 24 hours before planting.

To begin: fill your sterilized trays with seedling mix, water the seedling mix thoroughly, and then let them sit until the next day to warm up.  On day two, plant your seeds, mark your trays/pots, then water them in.

Seeds need warmth to germinate. Check out Heirloom Seeds’ website showing seed germination/soil temperatures:
http://www.heirloomseeds.com/germination.html

You can provide warmth with heating mats (available at garden supply stores) which sit under your seed trays or you can warm your greenhouse with a portable heater.

Some seeds also need light to germinate, so place trays a few inches below a grow light or a florescent light, and keep the lights on 24 hours a day.

After the plants have developed several sets of true leaves, transplant them into sterilized pots with a good garden variety potting soil.  To avoid transplant shock water them in with a B1 solution; B1 is available at garden stores. Once plants are established in their new pots, fertilize them once a week with a 1/4-strength water-soluble fertilizer. During the rest of the time use plain water; keep the seedlings moist, but not wet. Keep plants under the lights, keep them warm and watch them grow!

By: Carlotta Lucas & Melody Jones

Horticulture Report: February 2013

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BULBS TO PLANT IN THE SPRING

Iris: There are over 200 iris species.  Some grow from rhizomes, most common, others from bulbs.   Irises do best with plenty of sunlight and planted in soil that is fertile and well drained.   Don’t be too generous with fertilizer as it will produce lots of plants and few flowers. Plant iris rhizomes horizontally one foot apart and plant them shallow, just barely cover with soil. When blooms are finished cut faded flowers off to prevent seeds pods from forming, as these pods can weaken the plant.  Deer won’t eat iris, so, many gardeners claim irises have no pest except dogs, cats and children, who can jump on them breaking their stems.   Irises do not need mulching and they do not like overhead watering.

Crocus:  Autumn Crocus (Colchicum autumnale) resembles spring crocuses with white, lavender and rose colored flowers, but they bloom in the fall.  You can plant Autumn Crocuses in early spring. They like light, loamy soil with good drainage. Plant them 3-4 inches deep in a sunny location.  After blooming, let them die back naturally, do not “mow” them down.   The corms should be divided every 3-4 years to stop overcrowding or they will stop flowering. Autumn Crocuses are hardy in zones 5 & 6.

Saffron Crocus (Crocus Sativus) blooms with lavender or white flowers. Sativus’ stigmas (stamens) are the source of saffron, but in case you were thinking of raising them for saffron, it takes thousands of stigmas to produce one ounce of saffron.

Colchicum (Meadow Saffron) and Autumn Crocuses (Colchicum autumnale) are often confused with each other because they are both considered an autumn crocus, and their blooms are very similar. However colchicum is its own genus with at least 15 species, hybrids, and varieties. Colchicums are taller too, growing up to 8” in height and they are more expensive to buy. Be aware that colchicum corms contain a deadly toxic, so wear gloves when working with them.

Autumn Crocus belongs to the Lily family (Liliaceae) along with Lilies, Tulips, and Hyacinths while spring flowering crocuses are a member of the Iris family (Iridaceae) along with Irises and Gladiolus.

Allium:  The Allium, which is Latin for garlic, includes chives leeks, shallots, onions and of course, garlic.  Some members of Allium family are ornamental perennials which produce globe-like flowers. These flowers can be used in arrangements either freshly cut or dried. Plant ornamental Allium bulbs to a depth that’s 2 -3 times the diameter of the bulb, space them 6-12 inches apart. Plant bulbs in full sun and in ordinary soil. It flowers in many different colors and sizes. They don’t ‘have pests.

Gladiolus:  Gladioluses are members of the Iris family, and most of the 200 species are natives to Africa.   Their name comes from “gladius”, which is the Latin name for sword because of their sword-like foliage. Their flowers are borne on spikes 1-5 feet tall.

Plant bulbs in a sunny location 3-8 inches deep, and they look best planted in groups of 6-12 plants of the same color, rather than as an individual plant, or in groups of mixed colors.

Lilium: Lilies are among the most beautiful of the summer blooming flowers.   Historically, lilies were not easy to grow in North America because, unlike other bulbs, lilies never grow dormant. This made it difficult to ship in good condition and often they were infected with viruses. Then Jan de Graaff, who was born in Holland in 1903, became fascinated with Lilies.  In 1928, he started working for the Oregon Bulb Farms, and then in 1924 he bought the company.  After making thousands of lily crosses his flower called Enchantment was instantly success so he began marking lilies successfully.

Lily bulbs deteriorate rapidly, so plant right away. Lilies like very well drained acid soil enriched with enough humus to hold the moisture they need.  Plant bulbs 5-8 inches in a location with full sun until noon then shade in the afternoon. Lilies do well in large deep planters or pots with good drainage.   To discourage diseases water so no moisture stays on the foliage.   Fertilize with fish emulsion or seaweed.    However, the Madonna Lily and the Turks Cap only need their tops 1‘’ below the soil.  . Lilies have a reputation for a short life, therefore the need placing every 3 years.

Dahlias: Few plants offer such a variety of shapes sizes and color and long season of bloom as the Dahlia. It is a member of the daisy family and is a native to Mexico. After the Swedish born botanist Anders Dahl developed several hybrids, the plant was named after him.

Dahlias like rich, deeply tilled, loamy  soil and full sun, but protected from winds .  Do not plant near trees and other plants that will compete with them.   Dahlias over 4 feet tall must be staked because their stems are hollow and brittle.  Insert the stake into the ground before planting so you won’t damage the tuber,  Dahlias like plenty of nourishment and water, so be sure to give it  plenty of compost and manure.

Dahlias that grow over 4 feet tall should be planted 1 foot deep then covered with only 3-4 inches of soil.   After the stem break the surface, add more soil, repeat this until the top of the hole is reach. As it grows pinch off terminal buds to stimulate side branching and encourage a more bushy plant. There are also shorter varieties available now which grow only 2 ½ ft. high. These shorter versions can be grown in a large container.

The ground should be warm before planting Dahlias. To plant, lay tubers horizontally 4-6 inches deep and 18 inches apart, and do not water them after planting.  Give them a low nitrogen fertilizer, but don’t over feed them, and hand weed only.

Dahlias tubers are “thin skinned”, so they are not has cold hardy as a bulb, therefore it’s recommended they be dug up and store for the winter.  However, if you decided to leave them in the ground, cut their stems below the ground level in June. Then in mid-November cover your Dahlia area with plastic to keep the winter rains off of the tubers and add a few inches of leaves, mulch, soil or straw over the plastic to give them extra warmth.   Remove this protected cover in March.

by Mary Anne Wallace

Horticulture Report: January 2013

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Indoor Palms

By Gena Goddard

Of the 200 or so palm species only a few are able to be grown indoors where the climate is so challenging for any plant.  The palm has to adapt to low light, extra dry air, drafts, and being in a confined space. It also should be a slow grower so it stays house size.  The following 3 palms have been selected because they are suited for indoor growing and they are commonly sold.

Rhapis excelsa "Lady Palm"

Rhapis excelsa “Lady Palm”

The first is “Lady Palm”, Rhapis excelsa. It grows 6-8ft tall and makes a clump of brown hairy stems with dark green glossy leaves.  It grows slowly from underground rhizomes.  The leaflets are palmate like “a lady’s hand” and the leaf ends are saw-toothed unlike most palms.

Chamaedorea elegans "Parlor Palm"

Chamaedorea elegans “Parlor Palm”

The second is the “Parlor Palm” Chamaedorea elegans. It is the palm seen in Victorian homes in the movies. It is a slow grower, growing to 6-7’. It tolerates low levels of humidity and light, though it prefers medium to high humidity and brightindirect light.

Howeia forsteriana "Kentia Palm"

Howeia forsteriana “Kentia Palm”

The third is the Kentia, sentry or thatch palm Howea forsteriana. It is a slow grower eventually growing to about 10’ tall. Like the others it tolerates indirect light but needs good drainage.

Care:

I have three Lady Palms which I take outside in a shady place on my deck when the last frost is past, white in our USDA Zone 7B is sometime in late May. Palms can stay outdoors until threatened by  frost in Oct/Nov.  Before bringing them indoors, prepare them for their winter home by clipping off dead leaves and spraying them off a few times with a strong blast from a hose and inspecting leaves for insects.  Inspect all leaves very carefully for any bugs and if you see any spray plant with Safer pest control before bring plants indoors.  Place our palms indoors next to the big south facing sunny window and cover any furnace vent openings located close to them with a piece of carpet. They may suffer some indoors during the winter, but they survive so they can thrive and grow next year on my deck.

There are two things I have learned about palms:

1) They do not like to get too dry, so when the soil is dry down to about an inch I water them thoroughly.

2) You can’t prune palms to make them shorter. They only grow from the ends and once that is damaged the whole stem dies. This also means if they get too tall for their space you must give them away, or find a place indoors with more height.