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Plants to Propagate in October

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Rosemary:

  • Select Stems: Choose healthy, flexible tip growth (semi-hardwood) that is green and bends instead of snapping; avoid woody, brown bases or flowering tips.
  • Make the Cut: Using disinfected, sanitized pruners snip a 4-to-6-inch piece Strip Leaves: Gently pull the leaves off the bottom 2 to 3 inches of the stem.
  • Rooting: Dip the end in rooting hormone (optional) and place it in a well-draining mix (such as perlite and peat or potting soil) or water.
  • Overwintering: Keep the pots indoors near a bright window or under grow lights, cuttings need to be protected from freezing winter weather.
  • Transplant in Spring: Roots typically develop over several weeks to months. New plants can be individually potted or planted in the garden when spring arrives

 

Lavender:

  • Select Stems: Choose healthy, non-flowering side shoots from the current season that are firm and slightly woody at the base, but still flexible at the top (semi-ripe or hardwood). Avoid thick, old wood.
  • Make the Cut: Using disinfected sanitized pruners, snip 3- to 6-inch cuttings just below a leaf node where growth hormones are concentrated
  • Strip Lower Leaves: Remove the leaves from the bottom half to two-thirds of the stem, leaving only a few tiny leaves at the top.
  • Apply Rooting Hormone (Optional): Dip the bottom node into a rooting hormone powder to encourage faster root development.
  • Pot in Well-Draining Soil: Insert the cuttings into pots filled with a fast-draining propagation mix, multi-purpose compost, or a mix of compost and grit. Space them out along the edge of the pot.
  • Water and Create Humidity: Water the soil thoroughly to settle it. Cover the pot with a clear plastic bag supported by small plant canes, like a bamboo skewer, securing it with an elastic band to maintain high humidity (remove the bag periodically to let air circulate and prevent mold).
  • Overwintering keep the potted cuttings indoors on a bright windowsill, or in a greenhouse. Do not let them freeze or sit in  waterlogged soil.
  • Transplant in Spring: Roots typically develop over several weeks to months. New plants can be individually potted or planted in the garden when spring arrives

Easy-to-make Cut-Flower Preservative

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Using a preservative increases the longevity of your cut flowers. For flowers to survive they need three ingredients: carbohydrates for cell metabolism, a biocide to fight bacteria , and an acidifier to change the water’s pH and increase their water uptake.  This homemade mix provides them with what they need and it can be as effective as a commercial preservative, plus it’s easy to make and cost less.  

  • 1 quart lukewarm water ( warm water delivers “food” to the flowers faster)
  • 1 teaspoon sugar
  • 1 teaspoon household bleach
  • 2 teaspoons lemon or lime juice

Stir thoroughly before using.

Wildflower Seed balls For Butterflies

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What are seed balls?

Introduced in the 70s, seed balls are a form of “guerilla gardening” whereby seeds, soil and clay are mixed together into tidy germination bombs that are said to have an 80% higher success rate than simply broadcasting seeds onto soil.  Adding red potters’ clay to the mix protects the seeds from being blown away by wind or consumed by insects or birds.  Generally, seed balls don’t require watering and you should NOT bury or plant them.  Simply toss them in a vacant lot, your front yard, or a wildscape situation like a ranch or roadside.  Wait for the rain to melt away the clay casing, and nature will do the rest.

Texas Butterfly Ranch Seed ball Recipe

3 parts local soil or potting soil

1 – 2 parts red potter’s clay powder, also known as “terracotta powder” at pottery supply stores

1 part native wildflower seeds

Water, as needed.

Newspaper and cookie sheets for drying seed balls

Stainless steel bowls or pots for mixing

  ****

1.  Assemble ingredients.

2.  Mix soil, clay and wildflower seeds together in bowl.  Mix well.

3.  Add water to attain dough-like consistency, much like tart or pie dough

4. Pinch off or use spoon to grab gumball-sized amounts of the mix.  Roll between your palms to get round form.  Drop onto newspaper covered cookie sheet to dry.

5.  Sprinkle generously with red chili pepper.  Let set for 24 hours.

6.  Once the seed balls set up, usually after 24 hours, store them in paper bags for later use or toss them right away.  Remember to use only native seeds for wildscaping situations.

SOURCE

http://texasbutterflyranch.com/2011/12/20/happy-winter-solstice-celebrate-with-seedballs-a-recipe-and-step-by-step-directions-on-how-to-make-them/

OSU: Principles of Pruning

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Oregon State University: Principles of Pruning Videos

Pruning Pros  – In these clips, tree care pros with decades of experience will guide the viewer through the decision-making process—and solutions—to pruning larger, established trees.

Pruning Basics for Trees and Shrubs
Learn proper pruning technique, best timing, and which tools to use for landscape trees, conifers, and shrubs.

Get information about pruning fruit trees in this OSU Master Gardener 10-Minute University™ Class presented by OSU Master Gardener Sherry Sheng.

Pruning fruit trees
by 10-Minute University/OSU Master Gardeners

Pruning or training fruit trees
by 10-Minute University/OSU Master Gardeners

Pruning Roses   

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Roses are pruned to encourage new growth and healthy flowers during the growing season.  The time to prune roses depends on the type of rose your pruning. Roses that flower once a season are pruned right after they flower.  Roses that flower throughout the season are pruned when buds start to swell and become green. In Southern Oregon, Zone 8, this is typically mid- February to early March .

By-pass pruner

Tools Needed:
1)   Good pair of leather gloves,
2)   Sharp By-pass garden pruner, (recommended)
3)   Possibly: a medium to larger tree pruner and a handheld pruning saw.
Having sharp tools is imperative for making good clean cuts on branches.  Also, it’s important to disinfect every tool between each rose, because tools can transfer disease and viruses to other plants if not disinfected properly.

Disinfecting Tools:
1)   Isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol) is ideal for sanitizing pruning tools because the blades can be wiped, or dipped into it. Most rubbing alcohols contain 70% isopropyl alcohol, which can be used straight from the bottle.  Rubbing alcohol has a strong fumes, so avoid inhaling.

2)   A solution made of chlorine bleach can also be used as a disinfectant, but unlike alcohol, bleach must be diluted before using and blades must be soaked for 30 minutes for disinfection to really work.  To make a 10% bleach solution: mix one part bleach to nine parts of water. Remember to: avoid inhalation of fumes, wear rubber gloves to prevent contact with skin, and protect your clothing from the bleach and  bleach water. This bleach solution must be used within two hours of mixing, because it losses 50% of its effectiveness after two hours.  After soaking tools in bleach solution, rinse them with clean water to prevent corrosion, and wipe dry. Be aware that chlorine bleach it is not as effective against viruses as rubbing alcohol.

Steps to Pruning: 
1)  Start by removing dead and diseased canes; brown is dead, green is alive.
2)  Tip back brown stems until you see green in the cane.
3)  Remove all thin weak canes; if it’s thinner than a pencil remove it.
4)  Open up the center by taking out crossing branches. Branches that rub cause damage and encourage disease.
5)  Removing center canes allows air-flow which helps control diseases.

 Making the Cut:
Common practice is to make a slight 45-degree angle cut ¼-inch above an outward facing bud. Cutting to an outward facing bud encourages growth away from the center of the rose to provide better air-flow. An angled cut is said to allow moisture to run off the cut. While some rose growers say angled cuts are unnecessary, everyone agrees if the cut is too steep it weakens and/or damages the new bud, so cut at a “slight” angle.

Rose Structure:
The goal is to have an open structure with upward reaching branches in the shape of a vase.
How much  top pruning is done depends on the type of rose.  Typically, only 1/3 of the total height of a rose should be removed, unless an extremely neglected rose shrub needs hard pruning to reshape and repair. ( See examples of Hard, Moderate, Light Pruning in the drawing below)

Seal Cane Cuts:
Seal cut ends of all canes 3/16-inch diameter and larger with white Elmer’s multi-purpose glue, not school glue, or white water-base Tacky Glue, found in craft stores. This forms a barrier to deter cane boring insects from drilling into the pithy middle of rose canes, where they lay their eggs. In some cases, a boring insect can bore deep enough to kill the entire cane, and sometimes the whole rose bush.

Article By: Carlotta Lucas, Ashland Garden Club Member

Resource Article:
Barbara McMullen
Master Gardener OSU Extension

Drawings from Oregon State University webpage on Pruning Roses.  Rose Pruning: https://extension.oregonstate.edu/gardening/flowers-shrubs-trees/pruning-roses

Read more on Rose Borers: https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/flowers/roses/controlling-rose-cane-borers.htm

Growing Microgreens in Winter

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I start seeds in the clamshells you purchase spinach or salad in from the grocery store.

I drill holes in these containers top and bottom, add growing medium, sow the seeds, set up a “self watering” tray system [self-watering trays are double trays: bottom tray has no holes, and the top container or tray has holes], cover the seeds, then place trays on a heated mat [mat for plants].

Here I am starting speckled peas in a seed growing medium. [It’s important to use a good soil less growing medium. Some people use hemp fiber or coconut fiber growing mats]

I put weight on the seeds and keep them in the dark for a few days until they sprout, then I expose them to light.

It’s important to maintain even moisture; do not allow growing medium to dry out.

Speckled Peas seeds

I do the same with sunflower seeds. I start in seeds in growing medium in the dark and put weight on them, this way they make stronger roots and don’t dislodge each other. Then I expose them to light.

Sunflower Seeds

Below are Pea Shoots ready for harvest

Pea Shoots

Mung beans sprouts: I keep them in the dark so they get longer

Mung Beans

Radish sprouts: Next time I will let them grow longer.

Radish Sprouts

Sunflowers growing on a heat mat under lights, ready to harvest.

Sunflower Sprouts

Instructions & Pictures by Goly Ostovar, AGC Member