The Art of Growing Berries

Keys to Thriving Berries!

Blueberries, Raspberries,  and Triple Crown Thornless Berry.

Soils do better if prepared early, it’s easier to supplement your soil in early spring.

BLUEBERRIES (a challenging plant)Blueberry

  • Needs Acidic soil: either naturally occurring, or supplemented with peat moss
    • Member Note: Alternatives products for unsustainable peat moss:
      • Coconut Coir. A by-product of the coconut industry.
      • Pine Sawdust or Bark
      • Composted Manure or Leaves
  • 2 or more plants of similar bloom time needed for pollination
  • Regular moisture
  • Don’t allow plants to dry out
  • Shallow roots appreciates mulching
  • Fertilized with acidic fertilizer start early in the season
    • Twice in spring, once again when blooming
  • Provide afternoon shade in the Summer
  • Prune out any non-budding branches, dead Wood or Crowded branches
  • Netting may be a good idea

RASPBERRIES

  • Don’t like wet feet, but needs moistureraspberry
  • Water twice a week, then move to three times a week when above 85F
  • Does better with drip watering, fruit can get moldy if too wet
  • Fertilizing: Start with a 10-10-10 to grow canes, then switch to 5-10-10 if plants are growing large. Note: Use less nitrogen for more fruit production.
  • Needs conscious pruning, fruit grows on 2 year growth, (floricanes) unless  developing a first and second year everbearing system.
    • Cut out old canes after 2-year fruit
    • For young producers, cut every year to allow sun to reach plants.
  • Needs 6-8 hours Sun
    • Member Note: Intense afternoon sun can wilt plants and burn fruit

TRIPLE CROWN THORNLESS BERRY (Blackberry/Marionberry Cross)Triple Crown Thornless Blackberry

  • Will grow in many places, like blackberries
  • Non-Invasive, semi-erect vines
  • Have a choice of cutting canes when they reach 7-8 feet, or letting them grow and propagating tips into ground or container
  • Needs a trellis system to keep vines and berries off the ground
  • Fertilize at blossom time,
  • Water more when fruiting
  • Pick when the large dark berries come off easily, large globules
  • Prune out second-year canes after they fruit
    • You can do this in the fall

By Joel Heller, Guest Speaker AGC Meeting March 6th, 2017

Madrona Trees

‘Tis tmadrone-drawinghe Season for Madrona

Stand in a clump of Pacific madrone or madrona trees during a winter storm, the trunks wet and luscious, creamy green and burnished red, and feast on the beauty. Children pull off the beckoning curly bark strips and stroke the underlying pale green bark, smooth and soothing. Mature trees can support many bark colors and textures: the older rough brown-gray squares, dark weathered curlicues, strips of fresh reds, and the young green underbark. The Klamath Indians tell a beautiful story about Madrone Girl, who lured her lover the North Wind back from the embraces of another native tree girl, Chinquapin, by scrubbing her skin pure and new in the Klamath River. She sang a love song while standing proud and gorgeous from a mountaintop; North Wind immediately returned. It has since become a tradition, this sloughing off of flecks and puzzle pieces of bark during the summer, decorating the forest floor.

The first Euro-American explorer and naturalist to describe madrone was Dr. Archibald Menzies who explored the Puget Sound with Captain Vancouver in 1792. The scientific name, Arbutus menziesii, commemorates Dr. Menzies.  In his journal he aptly described the species:

“a peculiar ornament to the Forest by its large clusters of whitish flowers & ever green leaves but its peculiar smooth bark of a reddish brown colour will at times attract the Notice of the most superficial observer”.

While a common understory tree in lower-elevation forests in Southwest Oregon, each mardone-berriesmadrone tree sports a different wondrous shape from multi-stem octopus trees that have re-sprouted after a fire to grand “girthy” older beauties.  The leaves are sclerophyllous – thick and sturdy broadleaf leaves that conserve water during hot summers. Second year leaves drop off during the summer, adding yellows to the bark chip forest floor, while younger leaves provide a canopy of green light all year-round. The leaves also provide a holiday-style contrast to the red pitted berries that droop from branches in the fall.

Local indigenous people, like the Takelma, harvest the berries. Band-tailed Pigeons, American Robins, and many other critters eat them, dispersing the seeds to feed future generations. Little kids and crafters make necklaces of dried madrone berries. Like other plants in the heath family, such as manazanita, the sweet urn-shaped flowers bloom in the spring and are visited by bumble bees.

Madrona feeds all of us – poets, dreamers, explorers, birds, and bees.

Author: Kristi Mergenthaller, Stewardship Directory Southern Oregon Land Conservancy
Article from Southern Oregon Land Conservancy Newsletter- Winter 2016

 

Posted by: Carlotta Lucas – Ashland Garden Club

Butterfly Gardens

256px-danaus_plexippus-monarch

Monarch Butterfly

Robin McKenzie, Master Gardener and principal designer for Rockbird Gardens, gave an outstanding presentation on Monday at the Ashland Garden Club meeting. Robin specializes in creating sustainable backyard ecosystems for wildlife, and for people. Monday she talked about “Planning and Growing a Butterfly Garden”,  her talking points were:

• Research the items you need to attract butterflies
• Find a sunny garden location. ( 6-8 hrs of sun)
• Create a garden plan for your yard: flowerbeds, raised beds, and/or containers
• Know the timeline needed to create a garden
• Prepare the soil for your plants, add amendments, make sure you have good drainage
• Install borders and hardscape before you plant (*see mud-puddle below)
• Decide your plant choices: purchase and/or grow your plants, then plant according to their specific directions, don’t crowd your plants!

mud-puddle-for-butterflies

Butterfly Puddle

*Butterflies need water, so make them a mud puddle!
Use a shallow dish such as a plastic or terracotta plant saucer in a sunny area of your garden that is protected from the wind. Fill the bottom of the pan with sand, gravel, and a few small stones, add water to the dampen sand.

Host plants:
Attract more butterflies by having plants for larval food in your yard, for instance:

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Milkweed

Milkweed for Monarchs
Tarragon for Swallowtails
Angelica for Anise Swallowtails
Violas for Great Spangled Great Spangled Fritillary
Note: Be prepared for heavy munching on these host plants, these plants are  caterpillar food!

See list of host plants here:
http://nababutterfly.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/southwestern-Oregon-butterfly-garden-guide.pdf

And here….http://extension.oregonstate.edu/4hwildlifestewards/pdfs/butterfly.pdf

How to become a Certified monarch Butterfly Station:  www.monarchwatch.org

Lecture was by Robin McKenzie www.rockbirdgardens.com
Monarch Butterfly image by Simon Koopmann‎ on Wikimedia Commons
Submitted by: Carlotta Lucas

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Horticulture Report: Firepower Nandina

Plant Name: Nandina domesticanadina-firepower
Common Name:  Dwarf Heavenly bamboo
Cultivar: Firepower
Plant type: Evergreen Shrub
Height:   24 inches
Spread:  24  inches
Bloom Time: NonePrized for lime green leaves &  brilliant red fall color.
Exposure:  Full sun
Soil Requirements: rich, humus, well drained, acid soil.
Water Needs: 1st growing season water weekly until established, more in extreme heat.  Once established water deeply, but less frequent.
Attributes: Vibrant Fall Color,  Firewise Plant, Waterwise Plant, disease resistant,  hardy.
Uses: Urban Garden, Woodland Garden, Asian/Zen Garden, Borders, Containers, Mass plantings, Groundcover.
Note:  Firepower Nandina does not produce berries.
USDA Zone: 6-11