‘Lasagna’ Sheet Mulching

Here’s how to create a lasagna bed, also called sheet mulching:

  • Start in fall so the bed has all winter to start decomposing.
  • Cut grass as low as possible. Or start a lasagna garden on top of an old planting bed.
  • Loosen soil with a digging fork to increase aeration. Even punching holes in the ground will work.
  • Remove weeds.
  • Build a raised bed frame or just mound up the layers of organic material into an unframed bed.
  • Put a layer of cardboard overlapped an inch or two and water it.
  • Cover with 2-inch layers of green organic material like grass clippings, fresh plant debris, fresh animal manure and food scraps that provide nitrogen and brown materials like dry leaves, wood chips, straw and shredded newspaper that are carbon sources. Repeat layers until the bed is about 18 inches.
  • Top off with a 2- to 6-inch brown layer; thicker if you want to plant right away.
  • Create beds only wide enough to reach into the middle and create paths lined with straw to walk on so soil doesn’t get compacted.
  • Lasagna beds will shrink as materials decompose and may need refreshed layers each year.
  • Using transplants is easier in no-till gardening systems; the mulch layer is easier to transplant directly into rather than direct seeding, especially for small-seeded crops like lettuce and broccoli. To transplant, use a trowel or other tool to make holes large enough to plant into. If directly seeding into the bed, pull back the mulch layer and smooth over the surface layer with a rake before seeding.

Instructions from OSU Extension website https://extension.oregonstate.edu/news/no-till-garden

The term “Lasagna Gardening” was coined by Patricia Lanza, who wrote a book on the subject in 1998. The illustration above is from her book.

April: Vegetable Gardening

Vegetables you can plant in April  (NOTE: May 15th is the last average frost date in Ashland, of course this depends on your elevation)

Beets: Plant in two week intervals through June

Broccoli: Early varieties plant April to mid-May.

Brussels sprout: April through May. In late June start seeds for August transplanting. 

Cabbage: April through May 15th

Bush beans: April 15th through July  

Pole Beans: Wait until May! Plant through June

Carrots: Direct seed until June 15th

Cauliflower: Direct seed until May 31.

Chard: Direct seed until May 30th, then again in August/September for winter harvest

Chives: All month

Collards & Kale: All month, then again mid-July through September for October and winter harvest.

Leeks: Plant through May for winter harvest

Lettuce & Endive: Starts can be planted all month.

Onions: Plant by April 30th

Peas:  Plant enation-resistant varieties up until May 15th

Radishes: Direct seed by April 15th

Rhubarb: All month 

Spinach: Slow bolting varieties ( New Zealand Spinach) April 15 to 30th 

Dormant Sprays

Source:
Ross Penhallegon,Horticulturistdsc03426
OSU Extension Service

Recommendations for the least toxic sprays and treatments for fruit trees. These products are usually available at garden centers. Always follow label directions.

Dormant Oil: Apply when trees are dormant, November through March, after all the leaves have fallen. Mix with water as directed and spray to all surfaces of the trunk, branches and twigs. Apply when the temperature is expected to rise during the day; temperatures below 35 degrees can damage the bark. Dormant oil controls aphids, scale, spider mites, and many other insects by desiccating or smothering eggs and larvae.

Fixed Copper: Spray on apples, pears, cherries, peaches, and plums to control canker. Allow two weeks between applications of copper and any sprays containing sulfur. Add a spreader-sticker product to help copper adhere to the tree surface.

Latex paint: Coat the trunks of young trees with white latex paint mixed half-and-half with water. The paint reflects strong sunlight that, once the leaves fall, can cause cracking, a favorite place for pests to overwinter and can cause substantial winter damage.

Here are some tips for specific fruit trees:

Apples: Spray copper before fall rains; dormant oil once or twice from January through March; wettable sulfur just after petal fall.

Apricots: Spray copper before the fall rains and dormant oil in February.

Cherries: Use wettable sulfur applied weekly during blooming for brown rot. Information on synthetic sprays to control cherry fruit fly is available at your local county office of the OSU Extension Service.

Pears: Spray copper before the fall rains; spray dormant oil in early spring before buds open and wettable sulfur just after petal fall.

Peaches: Spray copper or a good dormant fungicide three to four times between December and bud break. Spray copper before fall rains and in spring just before bud break; apply sulfur weekly during blooming and again after all petals have fallen.

Author:Kym Pokorny

Read full article on the Oregon State University Extension Service Website:http://extension.oregonstate.edu/gardening/use-prevention-methods-fight-fruit-tree-diseases-2

Photo by: Carlotta Lucas AGC Member

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Raspberry Diseases

rbdv_berries

Oregon State University

Bushy Dwarf Virus:
Since 1998, this disease has increased in Oregon.  Bushy Dwarf (BD)virus causes berries to be  crumbly and leaves to developed chlorosis yellowing; although, not all infect plants  display this leaf-yellowing symptom.  BD can infect both raspberries and marionberries plants, dramatically reducing their fruit production and infecting surrounding plants.

DB Virus

Ontario Ministry of Agriculture

The BD is spread by pollinating insects, because the virus is in the flowers pollen, so they transmitted the virus to other plants. There is no ‘cure”  so infected plants must be destroyed.

Replanted with healthy nursery-certified, disease-resistant plants.

Below is a list of Raspberries resistant to BD:
Boyne, *Chilcotin, Citadel, *Comox, Fairview, Restival, Glen Cova, Glen Moy, *Haida, *Heritage, Hilton, Killarney, Malling Admiral, Malling Jewel,Malling Joy, Malling Promise, Nootka, Puyallup, Scepter, Sentinel,Sumner, *Willamette.

Note: *Willamette & Chilcotin raspberries are immune to raspberry bushy dwarf.
While, Haida, Comox and Heritage are moderately resistant.

Rasp Mosaic.jpg

Cornell University

Raspberry Mosaic:
Raspberry mosaic disease is spread by aphids, symptoms vary but in general they include: stunted canes, delayed leafing out, clusters of shoots coming out from one node, and tip dieback.  Leaf symptoms are yellow spots and cupping. This disease affects black raspberries more than red raspberries, but both can be infected. The plant typically dies within  two years.

Cultivars resistant to Raspberry Mosaic are:
Canby, Carnival, Chilliwack, Comox, Glen Moy, Glen Prosen, Haida, Malling
Autumn Bliss, Malling Joy, Malling Leo, Nootka, Reveille, Skeena.

Raspberries that are resistant to both diseases are: Haida, Malling Joy, Nootka.

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Leyland Cypress

“Cypress foliage is very flammable.  It is sticky and aromatic, two signs that is contains volatile waxes, oils and other substances that burn hot.  Flammability may not be an issue in a situation where the trees are isolated from other plants and flammable material (like fences), but consider that in recent years Leyland cypress plantings have contributed to damaging fires in southern Oregon.”

Siskiyou Woodlander
Leyland cypress: requiem for a hybrid?  Posted on March 25, 2014 by

Read more here:
http://blogs.oregonstate.edu/sworwoods/2014/03/25/leyland-cypress-requiem-hybrid/

 

Bird Feeders

Don’t let disease foul your bird feeder…

CORVALLIS, Ore. – As you’re welcoming wild birds into your yard this winter, be sure to keep your bird feeder clean and keep an eye on the health of your feathered diners.

“Sick birds will either be found dead or perched, often with feathers in disarray, eyes squinted or wings held out,” said Dana Sanchez, a wildlife specialist with the Oregon State University Extension Service. “Healthy birds are alert and mobile, whereas sick birds stand out because they are neither of those.”

Birds can get salmonella from bird feeders. Other diseases can spread when birds congregate or land on infected perches, Sanchez said.

“If the sick bird is associated with your feeders, take down the feeders and clean them,” she said. “It is probably a good idea to keep the feeders down for two to three weeks, until the disease has had a chance to run its course in the local population. Allow the bird to recover on its own. Make sure children, pets and free-ranging cats cannot get to the bird.”

Sanchez offered these tips to make sure your feeders are clean and free of mold for backyard visitors.

  • Clean your feeders once a month during low-use times and up to once a week during high-use periods.
  • Scrape off bird droppings and rinse or wipe clean the perches with a solution of 1 part vinegar to 20 parts water.
  • Hang your feeders where the feed won’t get wet. If seed in a feeder has gotten wet and compacted, remove the feed and discard it. Then clean the feeder with warm water and a brush.
  • Dry the feeder before refilling with the fresh seed.
  • If your feeder’s location is likely to get wet often, only fill it with a one- to two-day supply of seed at a time.
  • Clean up under feeders regularly and prevent accumulation of feed beneath the feeders by moving them occasionally. Seed on the ground can attract other animals, such as rodents, that you would prefer to not have near your home.

For more information about feeds and feeder placement, check out the following publication from the OSU Extension Service:  http://ir.library.oregonstate.edu/xmlui/bitstream/handle/1957/19664/ec1554.pdf

Author Denise Ruttan, OSU Extension Service
Source: Dana Sanchez, Wild Life Specialist OSU Extension Service