Horticulture Report: February 2013

BULBS TO PLANT IN THE SPRING

Iris: There are over 200 iris species.  Some grow from rhizomes, most common, others from bulbs.   Irises do best with plenty of sunlight and planted in soil that is fertile and well drained.   Don’t be too generous with fertilizer as it will produce lots of plants and few flowers. Plant iris rhizomes horizontally one foot apart and plant them shallow, just barely cover with soil. When blooms are finished cut faded flowers off to prevent seeds pods from forming, as these pods can weaken the plant.  Deer won’t eat iris, so, many gardeners claim irises have no pest except dogs, cats and children, who can jump on them breaking their stems.   Irises do not need mulching and they do not like overhead watering.

Crocus:  Autumn Crocus (Colchicum autumnale) resembles spring crocuses with white, lavender and rose colored flowers, but they bloom in the fall.  You can plant Autumn Crocuses in early spring. They like light, loamy soil with good drainage. Plant them 3-4 inches deep in a sunny location.  After blooming, let them die back naturally, do not “mow” them down.   The corms should be divided every 3-4 years to stop overcrowding or they will stop flowering. Autumn Crocuses are hardy in zones 5 & 6.

Saffron Crocus (Crocus Sativus) blooms with lavender or white flowers. Sativus’ stigmas (stamens) are the source of saffron, but in case you were thinking of raising them for saffron, it takes thousands of stigmas to produce one ounce of saffron.

Colchicum (Meadow Saffron) and Autumn Crocuses (Colchicum autumnale) are often confused with each other because they are both considered an autumn crocus, and their blooms are very similar. However colchicum is its own genus with at least 15 species, hybrids, and varieties. Colchicums are taller too, growing up to 8” in height and they are more expensive to buy. Be aware that colchicum corms contain a deadly toxic, so wear gloves when working with them.

Autumn Crocus belongs to the Lily family (Liliaceae) along with Lilies, Tulips, and Hyacinths while spring flowering crocuses are a member of the Iris family (Iridaceae) along with Irises and Gladiolus.

Allium:  The Allium, which is Latin for garlic, includes chives leeks, shallots, onions and of course, garlic.  Some members of Allium family are ornamental perennials which produce globe-like flowers. These flowers can be used in arrangements either freshly cut or dried. Plant ornamental Allium bulbs to a depth that’s 2 -3 times the diameter of the bulb, space them 6-12 inches apart. Plant bulbs in full sun and in ordinary soil. It flowers in many different colors and sizes. They don’t ‘have pests.

Gladiolus:  Gladioluses are members of the Iris family, and most of the 200 species are natives to Africa.   Their name comes from “gladius”, which is the Latin name for sword because of their sword-like foliage. Their flowers are borne on spikes 1-5 feet tall.

Plant bulbs in a sunny location 3-8 inches deep, and they look best planted in groups of 6-12 plants of the same color, rather than as an individual plant, or in groups of mixed colors.

Lilium: Lilies are among the most beautiful of the summer blooming flowers.   Historically, lilies were not easy to grow in North America because, unlike other bulbs, lilies never grow dormant. This made it difficult to ship in good condition and often they were infected with viruses. Then Jan de Graaff, who was born in Holland in 1903, became fascinated with Lilies.  In 1928, he started working for the Oregon Bulb Farms, and then in 1924 he bought the company.  After making thousands of lily crosses his flower called Enchantment was instantly success so he began marking lilies successfully.

Lily bulbs deteriorate rapidly, so plant right away. Lilies like very well drained acid soil enriched with enough humus to hold the moisture they need.  Plant bulbs 5-8 inches in a location with full sun until noon then shade in the afternoon. Lilies do well in large deep planters or pots with good drainage.   To discourage diseases water so no moisture stays on the foliage.   Fertilize with fish emulsion or seaweed.    However, the Madonna Lily and the Turks Cap only need their tops 1‘’ below the soil.  . Lilies have a reputation for a short life, therefore the need placing every 3 years.

Dahlias: Few plants offer such a variety of shapes sizes and color and long season of bloom as the Dahlia. It is a member of the daisy family and is a native to Mexico. After the Swedish born botanist Anders Dahl developed several hybrids, the plant was named after him.

Dahlias like rich, deeply tilled, loamy  soil and full sun, but protected from winds .  Do not plant near trees and other plants that will compete with them.   Dahlias over 4 feet tall must be staked because their stems are hollow and brittle.  Insert the stake into the ground before planting so you won’t damage the tuber,  Dahlias like plenty of nourishment and water, so be sure to give it  plenty of compost and manure.

Dahlias that grow over 4 feet tall should be planted 1 foot deep then covered with only 3-4 inches of soil.   After the stem break the surface, add more soil, repeat this until the top of the hole is reach. As it grows pinch off terminal buds to stimulate side branching and encourage a more bushy plant. There are also shorter varieties available now which grow only 2 ½ ft. high. These shorter versions can be grown in a large container.

The ground should be warm before planting Dahlias. To plant, lay tubers horizontally 4-6 inches deep and 18 inches apart, and do not water them after planting.  Give them a low nitrogen fertilizer, but don’t over feed them, and hand weed only.

Dahlias tubers are “thin skinned”, so they are not has cold hardy as a bulb, therefore it’s recommended they be dug up and store for the winter.  However, if you decided to leave them in the ground, cut their stems below the ground level in June. Then in mid-November cover your Dahlia area with plastic to keep the winter rains off of the tubers and add a few inches of leaves, mulch, soil or straw over the plastic to give them extra warmth.   Remove this protected cover in March.

by Mary Anne Wallace

Horticulture Report: January 2013

Indoor Palms

By Gena Goddard

Of the 200 or so palm species only a few are able to be grown indoors where the climate is so challenging for any plant.  The palm has to adapt to low light, extra dry air, drafts, and being in a confined space. It also should be a slow grower so it stays house size.  The following 3 palms have been selected because they are suited for indoor growing and they are commonly sold.

Rhapis excelsa "Lady Palm"

Rhapis excelsa “Lady Palm”

The first is “Lady Palm”, Rhapis excelsa. It grows 6-8ft tall and makes a clump of brown hairy stems with dark green glossy leaves.  It grows slowly from underground rhizomes.  The leaflets are palmate like “a lady’s hand” and the leaf ends are saw-toothed unlike most palms.

Chamaedorea elegans "Parlor Palm"

Chamaedorea elegans “Parlor Palm”

The second is the “Parlor Palm” Chamaedorea elegans. It is the palm seen in Victorian homes in the movies. It is a slow grower, growing to 6-7’. It tolerates low levels of humidity and light, though it prefers medium to high humidity and brightindirect light.

Howeia forsteriana "Kentia Palm"

Howeia forsteriana “Kentia Palm”

The third is the Kentia, sentry or thatch palm Howea forsteriana. It is a slow grower eventually growing to about 10’ tall. Like the others it tolerates indirect light but needs good drainage.

Care:

I have three Lady Palms which I take outside in a shady place on my deck when the last frost is past, white in our USDA Zone 7B is sometime in late May. Palms can stay outdoors until threatened by  frost in Oct/Nov.  Before bringing them indoors, prepare them for their winter home by clipping off dead leaves and spraying them off a few times with a strong blast from a hose and inspecting leaves for insects.  Inspect all leaves very carefully for any bugs and if you see any spray plant with Safer pest control before bring plants indoors.  Place our palms indoors next to the big south facing sunny window and cover any furnace vent openings located close to them with a piece of carpet. They may suffer some indoors during the winter, but they survive so they can thrive and grow next year on my deck.

There are two things I have learned about palms:

1) They do not like to get too dry, so when the soil is dry down to about an inch I water them thoroughly.

2) You can’t prune palms to make them shorter. They only grow from the ends and once that is damaged the whole stem dies. This also means if they get too tall for their space you must give them away, or find a place indoors with more height.

2012 November Horticultural Report: Firewise Plants

The Ashland Fire Dept is asking residents to seriously consider planting fire resistant plants around their house and property to reduce fire hazards. They are advising homeowners to remove all plants they consider fire hazards and in their place plant firewise plants.

For more information, and to schedule a free wildfire safety home assessment call: Ali True, Ashland Firewise Community Coordinator at 541-552-2231.

Junipers are especially combustible!  This drought tolerant ground cover is planted around so many homes in our area the City is requesting they be cleared back 50 feet away from a any structure

Also, the Oregon State University Extension Service has a list of recommended fire-resistant plants which you can obtain from Valley View Nursery, or you can download it here: http://extension.oregonstate.edu/sorec/sites/default/files/fire-resistant_planting_wd_2011.pdf

The following is a short list of recommended firewise plants:

Ground Covers:
Kinnikinnick and Creeping Oregon Grape both look good year round and prefer sun or part sun. For shady areas, plant Japanese Pachysandra.

Perennials:
Firewise perennials plants:  Yarrow (note: can spread), Cone flower, Iris, Oriental poppy , Russian sage, Lamb’s ear, and Cranesbill.

Shrubs:
Burning bush, Rockrose, Ferns, Witch Hazel, Heavenly Bamboo, False Holly, Pieris, Potentilla Fruticosa,  Rosa Rugosa, Lilac, Viburnums, Sweetspire and Cotoneaster.

Regina, at Ray’s Nursery, highly recommends the following plants because they are not only fire-resistant, they are very attractive, easy to grow and deer resistant.

Cotoneaster Dammericotoneaster_dammeri_var_radicans
Plant Type: Evergreen, groundcover, shrub
Size: 2ft tall 6ft wide
Bloom Time: Late Spring
Flowers: White
Exposure: Full sun
Attributes: Fall color & red berries, Deer resistant, Attracts Birds, drought tolerant once established.  Grows fast.
USDA Zone: 5-8

Itea Virginica  (Little Henry Sweetspire)ilex Little Henry
Plant Type: Deciduous Shrub
Size: 2 ft High 3ft Wide
Bloom Time: June – July
Flowers: Fragrant white sprays
Exposure: Part to full sun
Attributes:  Attracts butterflies, Bright red fall foliage, Deer resistant, North America Native. Needs moist soil.
USDA Zone: 5-9

Horticultural Report by: Mary Anne Wallace
Article written by: Carlotta Lucas

Mums the word!

There are over 5,00 varies of mums, but only common garden varieties are usually found at local nurseries. Check online if you are looking for unusual ones, or ask your local nurseryman if they can order a specific variety for you.

Guide to chrysantheMUMS:
  • Select mums that match your hardiness zone. Mums are available in both tender and hardy perennials.
  • Plant mums in full sun, they need at least 6 hours daily.
  • Mums like well draining soil. Boost soil with compost and fertilize mums every 4-6 weeks with a water-soluble fertilizer during the growing season.

  • Never let mums wilt! Water often and do not let them dry out.
  • Watch for pest,  and treat plants with insecticidal soap, if needed.
  • Pinch spent blooms to encourage more blossoms and to keep plant bushy.
  • Mums bloom at different times during the season; there are early, mid, and late blooming varieties. Fall mums will continue blooming until a hard freeze.

~Carlotta

Planting for Birds

Variety is the key to encouraging birds of all kinds. Providing a mixture of large trees, (deciduous and conifer); clumps of berry-laden shrubs; fruit trees; many kinds of flowers and grasses; weeds allowed to seed; insects to forage; fresh water; and a well stocked feeder will please a great variety of birds. (P.S. Remember, easy on the chemical sprays.)

Conifers

Warning: Conifers are high risk for wild fire Conifers are “Prohibited Trees” in Ashland Oregon

Douglas Fir

Western Hemlock

Junipers

Pines

Spruce

Yews

Perennials

Aster

Bee Balm

Coreopsis

Columbine

Crocosmia Lucifer

Cardinal Flower

Bleeding Heart

Delphiniums

Sages/Salvias

Comfrey

Pensemons

Butterfly Bush

Garden Phlox

Globe Thistle

Goldenrod

Foxglove

Ornamental Grasses

Red Hot Poker

Coral Bells

Dianthus

Lupine

Cornflower

Yucca

Deciduous Trees

Birch

Dogwoods

Madrone

Russian Olive

Mountain Ash

Cherry

Filbert

Maples

Crabapple

Hawthorn

Sassafras

Oaks

Hickory

Walnut

Annuals

Marigolds

Calendula

Cosmos

Sunflowers

Zinnias

Petunias

Salvia

Phlox

Impatiens

Nicotiana

Fushias

Shrubs

Holly

Pyracantha

Viburnums

Lilac

Weigela

Blackberry

Mulberry

Snowberry

Oregon Grape

Wild Current

Honeysuckle

Cotoneaster

Sumac

Serviceberry

Flowering Quince

Barberry

Raspberry

Hackberry

Elderberry

Manzanita

Gooseberry

Buckbrush

Vines

Trumpet Honeysuckle

Virginia Creeper

Scarlet Runner Bean

Morning Glory

Trumpet Vine

Ground Covers

Kinnikinnik

Wintergreen

Partridgeberry

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Article from: Rogue Valley Grange Coop

Photo by: Carlotta Lucas

May Horticulture Report: Peony Month!

Peony report
By Gena Goddard
I think that May should be Peony month. The glorious peony is already known as the Memorial Day flower.  Why not celebrate it all month? My first peonies have already started blooming. The first to bloom is always the tenuifolia, fern leaf peony and probably one of the original flowers which was bred into the myriad of varieties we have today, the most common being the full double. The hybridizers of the 19th and 20th centuries started with average sized flowers with many yellow stamens and turned the stamens into staminoids which they were able to turn into petals. Sometimes science is a bit magical and hybridizers capitalized on that petal formation to make a huge fully petaled blossom sometimes 6” across.
                The next to bloom are the tree peonies (paeoniasuffruticosa).  I stuck two bushes together which bloom at the same time The first bush to bloom has dark magenta flowers, then a taller bush with large white flowers bloom above a week later. These blooms are large and the texture reminds me of crepe paper flowers made in Mexico. Then the yellow tree bush blooms.  It is an older bush at least 10 years old, but retains its small stature of only about 3 feet tall.
                After the tree peonies are done there is a little lull of about a week or two and then the herbaceous peonies (Paeonialactiflora)start.  I have the old standard, ‘festiva maxima’ white double with red flecks which blooms early and then my favorite pink Mrs. F.D.R.  It is so delicate with its longer petals. Then finally the reds like Karl Rosenfeld. By that time the month of May is over and so I fertilize with an all-purpose 5-5-5 and relax and let all my plants have a leisurely summer storing energy for next year.
When fall arrives the leaves turn a dark red and just before the first frost I cut them back to a couple of inches above ground so that I know where they are for next spring.  This fall I plan on digging up many of my plants and dividing them because the grass has invaded the whole bed and needs to be eradicated before I replant them back. When dividing dig up root, wash off most of the dirt so you can see the eyes for next year’s growth. Saw the root so that you have 3-5 eyes per root.  I am not looking forward to this task. When I replant I will make larger holes about 2’ diameter and in depth. I will also put lots of compost mixed with the native soil into the hole so that the eye is no deeper than 2” below the ground level.
                There isn’t a peony that I have seen that I don’t like.  I saw a native peony at Hyatt Lake and it’s little brown blossom was demurely hidden under the leaves.
Places I recommend for herbaceous peonies are Adelman’s Peonies in Salem, Oregon and Deason’s Peonies in Ashland, Oregon . For tree peonies, I recommend Brothers Herbs and Peonies in Wilsonville, Oregon.

Plant Resources:
Deason’s Peonies:     http://www.deasonpeonies.com/
Adelman’s Peonies:   http://peonyparadise.com/
Brothers Herbs and Peonies:  http://www.treony.com/