Schlumbergera (Christmas Cactus)

Schlumbergera is a small genus of cacti native to the coastal mountains of Brazil. These cacti are not desert dwellers, but are shade loving “epiphytes”, meaning they grow on the surface of other plants and get moisture and nutrients from the air, rain and debris accumulating around it.  Schlumbergeras grow on tree branches in Brazilian coastal forests where the humidity is high.

Schlumbergera are also known as Christmas Cactus, but there are actually several Schlumbergera species:  Thanksgiving Cactus, Schlumbergera truncata, which blooms in late fall, Christmas Cactus, Schlumbergera bridgesii, which blooms in mid to late December, and Easter Cactus, which blooms in early spring, but care for all of them is the same.  What’s amazing about Schlumbergeras is they can live to be 100 years when  cared for properly!

PLANT CARE:

Light Exposure:  Schlumbergera like bright indirect light, never place in direct sunlight or they will burn.
Temperature: Prefer daytime temperatures of 65F-70F degrees, and nighttime temperatures of 55F-65F degrees.
Pest & Disease: Watch for Fungus gnats and Root rot
USDA Hardiness Zones: 9-11 to grow outdoors but in all other zones it’s a houseplant

Soil:
Plants grow best when pot-bound, but after two or three years they need re-potted.  Re-pot plant only after it has bloomed, then move it into a slightly larger pot. Schlumbergeras roots can easily rot if the soil is too wet, so the pot must have good drain holes and be planted in a lightweight well-draining soil mix.  Potting soils for cactus & succulents are readily available at garden centers, or you can make your own.

Below are four suggested Schlumbergera cactus soil recipes:

A. 1/2 potting soil, 1/4 horticultural perlite, 1/4 orchid bark.
B. 1/3 Coconut Coir, 1/3 horticultural perlite, 1/3 fine fir bark.
C. 1/3 soil-less potting soil, 1/3 horticultural perlite, 1/3 pine bark nuggets.
D.  2/3 balanced PH potting soil with perlite, 1/3 sand

Water & Fertilizer:
Water only when the top one or two inches of soil is dry. Water enough to soak the soil, but let it dry out before watering again.

Schlumbergeras like high humidity, so place the pot in a tray of pebbles to collect water, but don’t let the pot sit in a pool of water to avoid root rot. Placing the cacti beside other plants can provide it with higher humidity, too.

Use houseplant fertilizer 20-20-20, or 20-10-20. Feed plants monthly with half-strength diluted fertilizer spring through summer to ensure blooms around the holidays, once buds appear fertilize every two weeks with diluted solution of fertilizer. Allow plants to rest after blooming by holding off fertilizing them for 3 months.

Prune:

Prune plant to keep it balanced. Cut off leggy sections between stem segments. These stem cuttings can be rooted to make new plants.   Place a cutting in a pot with good soil, and keep moist, it should root in 2 weeks. These rooted cuttings make great gifts.

NOTE: According to PetMD, Schlumbergeras are non-toxic to house pets

                                                                Carlotta Lucas’ 45-year-old Christmas Cactus Continue reading

Christmas Cactus

 Scientific Name: Schlumbergera

A Christmas Cactus in full bloom makes an extraordinary gift for gardeners, and non-gardeners, alike.  With proper care a Christmas Cactus is very long lived. The one shown here is over forty years old and still provides an amazing display of flowers every Christmas season.

Christmas Cactus Care:

Light/Temperature:  Prefers a warm location with bright indirect sunlight. Shade it from intense sun and keep the plant away from heater vents, fireplaces and cold drafts.

Soil:  Plant in well draining potting mix made for succulent plants. Its ideal soil is composed of equal parts of garden loam, leaf mold or peat, and clean course sand.

Water:  A Christmas Cactus is a tropical succulent, it is NOT a true cactus, therefore it requires more water than a true cactus. Its watering needs vary with air temperature and humidity, but in general keep the soil just barely moist throughout the year. But, do not over water or the stems will get flabby and droop,  and don’t under water either or the stems will be shriveled and limp. Note: if your plant tends to dry out and/or wilt frequently, then it’s time to re-pot it into a slightly larger container.

Fertilizing: Supply plant with a weak solution of houseplant fertilizer every two weeks.

Flowering:  The secret to good bud production is cool temperatures and extended darkness.

Cool temps: The best temperature for bud development is 55F-61F degrees for a period of 6 weeks.  Start providing cool temps in November for Christmas blooming.

Extended Darkness: The plant also needs 12 hours of darkness every night for 6 weeks.  You can accomplish darkness by covering the plant with a cloth each night or move it into a dark area overnight.  For cactus to bloom at Christmas time, darkness treatment should start in early October. Then, when buds start to appear increase its light exposure.  Do not move the plant when it starts blooming, because it is sensitive to location during this time.

Color:  Flower colors ranges from pink, white, yellow, salmon, fuchsia, red and any combination of these.

Rest time:  In February, after it has bloomed, the plant should have a rest period, so during this month water it sparingly and stop fertilizing.

Re-potting:  A Christmas Cactus blooms better if slightly pot-bound, so re-pot only when needed every 3-4 years.  Re-pot the plant into a slightly bigger pot in the spring when it is not in bloom.

Propagation:  Propagating Christmas cactus is easy. Cut a y-shaped segment off the tip of the plant, this cutting should have 2-3 joined segments.  Allow the cutting to dry for a few hours and then plant it in moist peat & sand soil mix, insert about a quarter of its length below the soil surface. Place it in a well-lit area, avoid direct sunlight and water it sparingly to prevent rotting.  In two or three weeks the cutting should show signs of growth at the tips of its leaves, these are usually reddish in color. Once it has rooted transplant it into a pot.

submitted by Carlotta Lucas

 

DIY: Aphid Spray

Make your own insecticidal soap: Aphids attacking a rode bud and stopping it from opening

Mix 5 tablespoons of all-natural liquid soap with 1 gallon water. 

Using a hand sprayer apply soap mixture directly on the aphids. Wait an hour then spray the roses with a garden hose to remove any soap residue and the dead aphids.

Repeat as needed.

Raspberry Diseases

rbdv_berries

Oregon State University

Bushy Dwarf Virus:
Since 1998, this disease has increased in Oregon.  Bushy Dwarf (BD)virus causes berries to be  crumbly and leaves to developed chlorosis yellowing; although, not all infect plants  display this leaf-yellowing symptom.  BD can infect both raspberries and marionberries plants, dramatically reducing their fruit production and infecting surrounding plants.

DB Virus

Ontario Ministry of Agriculture

The BD is spread by pollinating insects, because the virus is in the flowers pollen, so they transmitted the virus to other plants. There is no ‘cure”  so infected plants must be destroyed.

Replanted with healthy nursery-certified, disease-resistant plants.

Below is a list of Raspberries resistant to BD:
Boyne, *Chilcotin, Citadel, *Comox, Fairview, Restival, Glen Cova, Glen Moy, *Haida, *Heritage, Hilton, Killarney, Malling Admiral, Malling Jewel,Malling Joy, Malling Promise, Nootka, Puyallup, Scepter, Sentinel,Sumner, *Willamette.

Note: *Willamette & Chilcotin raspberries are immune to raspberry bushy dwarf.
While, Haida, Comox and Heritage are moderately resistant.

Rasp Mosaic.jpg

Cornell University

Raspberry Mosaic:
Raspberry mosaic disease is spread by aphids, symptoms vary but in general they include: stunted canes, delayed leafing out, clusters of shoots coming out from one node, and tip dieback.  Leaf symptoms are yellow spots and cupping. This disease affects black raspberries more than red raspberries, but both can be infected. The plant typically dies within  two years.

Cultivars resistant to Raspberry Mosaic are:
Canby, Carnival, Chilliwack, Comox, Glen Moy, Glen Prosen, Haida, Malling
Autumn Bliss, Malling Joy, Malling Leo, Nootka, Reveille, Skeena.

Raspberries that are resistant to both diseases are: Haida, Malling Joy, Nootka.

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Leyland Cypress

“Cypress foliage is very flammable.  It is sticky and aromatic, two signs that is contains volatile waxes, oils and other substances that burn hot.  Flammability may not be an issue in a situation where the trees are isolated from other plants and flammable material (like fences), but consider that in recent years Leyland cypress plantings have contributed to damaging fires in southern Oregon.”

Siskiyou Woodlander
Leyland cypress: requiem for a hybrid?  Posted on March 25, 2014 by

Read more here:
http://blogs.oregonstate.edu/sworwoods/2014/03/25/leyland-cypress-requiem-hybrid/