Providing water for birds in winter

From the National Wildlife Federation  https://blog.nwf.org/2014/12/dont-forget-water-for-birds-in-winter/

Here are some tips for easily—and safely—providing water for wildlife during the cold months:

Dark Eyed Junco
  1. Before the cold sets in, replace delicate solar or fountain birdbaths with sturdier, winter-ready water features. Because ice can cause cracks and leaks, concrete baths should be stored or covered in winter.
  2. Place baths in a sunny area to make them more visible to birds and to help keep the water liquid.
  3. While birds are unlikely to submerge themselves in very cold weather, you can help them stay dry and drink more easily by adding several stones to the bath or placing a few sticks on top that the animals can use as perches.
  4. Even during winter, birdbaths (as well as feeders) should be cleaned regularly.
  5. To keep water from freezing, consider adding an immersion-style water heater. More recent models will turn off if the water in the bath dries up.
  6. If using a heater, add a ground-fault interrupted circuit (available at hardware stores) to prevent electric shorts. Check that cords and outlets are sheltered from snow or ice buildup.
  7. As a homemade alternative to a heater, place a light bulb in a flower pot and put a small water basin on top of the pot.
  8. A simpler option—particularly if you have no outdoor electric outlet—is to buy several heavy-duty plant saucers that will not be cracked by ice and replace frozen baths with fresh ones each morning.
  9. Avoid adding glycerin to a birdbath as antifreeze; if birds ingest too much, it can dangerously elevate their blood-sugar levels. Glycerin solutions also may mat birds feathers, decreasing insulation at a time when the animals need it most.

Posted by: Carlotta Lucas,

Photo by: Jocelyn Anderson, CC BY 3.0 https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Mulch on, and don’t fear the aphids

Mulch on, and don’t fear the aphids  by Rhonda Nowak for the Mail Tribune Published Sunday, November 22nd 2020
( In response to a question posed by AGC member Donna R.)

“Listen
With faint dry sound,
Like steps of passing ghosts,
The leaves, frost-crisp’d, break from the trees
And fall.”
— Adelaide Crapsey, “November Night” in “Verses,” 1915

American poet Adelaide Crapsey (1878-1914) did not enjoy a long life — she died in New York at the age of 36 from tuberculosis. Although her poetry is not widely remembered today, Crapsey left an important legacy in the form of her unrhymed, five-line, 22-syllable poems, inspired by her love of Japanese haiku.

Her style has become known as the American cinquain, adopted and modified by many poets of the 20th and 21st centuries. In his 1918 collection of poems “Cornhuskers” (for which he won a Pulitzer Prize), Carl Sandburg published a tribute to Adelaide Crapsey in a section of the book called “Persons Half Known.”

Speaking of the “half known,” I received an email from a reader who wanted to know more about using fall leaves for mulch in the garden (the topic of my column Nov. 8). Donna wrote, “I appreciate the benefits of mulching. However, no one seems to include aphids in these discussions, only beneficial insects. What is the life cycle for aphids and does mulching encourage their overwintering?”

I replied to Donna that aphids do, indeed, overwinter in our garden, usually in the egg phase of their development. Although leaf litter provides shelter for aphids, most of the approximately 5,000 known species of aphids lay eggs on the leaves and stems of specific host plants. For example, Donna’s aphid nemesis is the lupine aphid (Macrosiphum albifrons), and my roses are sometimes plagued by a different species called rose aphids (Macrosiphum rosae).

Other aphids prefer vegetable crops for their host plants, such as cabbage aphids (Brevicoryne brassicae) and turnip aphids (Lipaphis erysimi).

In the spring, only female aphids hatch from overwintered eggs, and they begin reproducing one week later. During most of the year, female aphids reproduce asexually through a process called parthenogenesis, whereby they give birth to miniature replicas of themselves rather than laying eggs. During one season, some aphid species can produce up to 41 generations of offspring, each insect living 20 to 40 days and producing between 50 and 100 babies.

Most aphids live out their lives on their host plants. Later in the summer, some adults will develop wings and fly off to visit other plant species, but subsequent generations of females will return to their host plant species in the fall. By then, some aphids have developed into males, so females find a mate and then lay their fertilized eggs on the host plant, or in leaf litter, to start the process all over again.

By layering garden beds with leaf mulch, it seems like gardeners are practically ensuring aphids will not only survive but remain comfortable all winter. However, scientists have found that 70% to 80% of overwintering aphids die before spring due to predation or cell damage. (Keep in mind that leaf mulch also provides shelter to aphid predators.)

Aphids that do survive the winter are an excellent source of nutrition for hungry birds, as well as many kinds of beneficial insects: parasitic wasps, ladybugs, lacewings, hover flies and soldier beetles.

In fact, aphids are not just sap-sucking, disease-spreading garden pests; they’re also an important part of the food chain in a balanced ecosystem. In order to attract our pollinator friends to the garden, we must provide food for them, and aphids and other insects we consider pests fit that bill quite nicely.

Aphid infestations occur when the garden doesn’t have enough aphid predators or when weakened plants are unable to ward off insect pests; thus, aphid invasions tell us that the garden ecosystem is off-balance in some way. We might say aphids are “food for thought” for gardeners just as they are food for wildlife.

Leaf mulch is an efficient use of fall leaves to provide habitat for overwintering wildlife, including aphids. When we see overwintering birds foraging in the garden, we may even be thankful the aphids are there!

Rhonda Nowak is a Rogue Valley gardener, teacher and writer. For more about gardening, check out her podcasts at https://mailtribune.com/podcasts/the-literary-gardener and her website at www.literarygardener.com.

Recipe for Seed-Starting Mix

Basic Recipe for Seed-Starting Mix

4 parts compost
1 part perlite
1 part vermiculite
2 parts peat moss
That there is little to no nutrition in the mix, because seeds come with their own, built-in nutrition.  (“A seed is a baby plant in a box, with it’s lunch.”)
Seed starting mix is finer than other  mixes, so it’s important that the compost used is very fine. ~Sherri Morgan, Master Gardener & AGC Board Member

Photo by: Carlotta Lucas, AGC Board Member

Crabapples Add Winter Interest

Crabapples are an excellent choice for creating winter interest in a landscape and their small fruits are a desirable food source for birds. Crabapples have a reputation of being messy, but if you purchase trees with “persistent” fruit, then the fruits stays on the tree longer, making less of a mess on the ground and leaving more fruit on the tree for birds. Persistent fruits also provide longer winter interest with red, pink, orange or yellow fruits hanging on trees.

Crabapple blossoms come in white, light pink, deep pink and rose-colored, which attracts butterflies and bees in the spring.  Some varieties have fragrant flowers and some have purple foliage.  Crabapples come in various sizes to accommodate small, medium or large yards.  In this first posting I am listing three dwarf varieties for small spaces and ones with excellent to good disease resistance; there are many more. (*chart)

Hardiness Zones 4-8.  Sun Exposure:  Full Sun 6+ hours, Part Sun 4-6 hours, Full Shade up to 4 hours.  Note: Where fire blight is a concern, avoid spring pruning (when bacterium can enter fresh open cuts).

Dwarf Crabapples

Lollipop Crabapple:  10 ft H x 10 ft W; Neat formal compact dwarf tree with rounded head, fine texture with small leaves and dense growth habit and symmetrical form. Foliage: Green. Flowers: White with yellow stamens. Fruit: Bright red, 3/8-inch. Disease resistant ratings- Excellent: Mildew & Cedar Apple Rust. Good: Fire Blight & Scab.

Sargent Crabapple: 8 ft H x12ft W; Natural forming dwarf tree with horizontal spreading branches. Foliage: Dark Green. Flowers: Profuse ½-inch white fragrant flowers. Fruit: 1/4-inch Bright Red, Profuse, Persistent. Disease resistant ratings- Excellent: Mildew, Cedar Apple Rust, Fire Blight & Scab.

Pink Princess Crabapple: 8 ft h x 12 ft W; Natural dwarf tree with low spreading branches. Foliage: Purple turning to Bronze-Green. Flowers: Rose Pink. Fruit: Deep Red, ¼ -inch. Disease resistant ratings-Excellent: Cedar Apple Rust, Mildew, Fire Blight & Scab.

Article by: Carlotta Lucas, AGC Member

*Chart by: J. Frank Schmidt & Son Co https://www.jfschmidt.com/pdfs/JFS_CRAB_CHART.pdf

Gardening Tips: Gladiolus

*Marjorie’s Burgundy Gladiolus!

Dividing Gladiolus Bulbs

Gently pull out of the ground and let them dry. See the very bottom bulb with the white roots? This is the “mother”, she has produced three big babies. After the plants dry, separate babies from the mother; sadly, the mother gets thrown out. Store baby bulbs in a paper bag where then can stay dry and be kept above freezing. Replant in the spring. ~Melody Jones, AGC Member

Member, *Marjorie Hoeft, shared gladiolus bulbs with other members at a club meeting.

Photos by: Melody Jones