Random Gardening Tips

Sweet Williams

To Attract Butterflies:  Plant these in your garden – Asters, Buddleja, Sweet William, Mexican Sunflower ((Tithonia rotundifolia), Milkweed, & Pipevine.

 

Tomato Tip: Help tomatoes pollinate by flicking each bloom with a fingernail during the driest part of the day, two or three times per week.  Shake big plants to spread their sticky pollen.

SALVIA guaranitica

Deer Problems: Are critters causing trouble in your garden?  Try deer-and rabbit-resistant perennial flowers including, agastache, artemisia, lavender, monarda, ornamental oregano, Russian sage, salvia, & yarrow.

 

 Iris Care: In the spring when tulips are blooming in your    neighborhood apply a light application of low-nitrogen fertilizers (6-10-10). Apply a second light application about a month after bloom; this will reward you with good growth and bloom. Avoid using anything high in nitrogen. After tall-bearded irises stop blooming, cut off spent flower stalks to promote new rhizome growth.

Rhododendrons: Immediately after bloom, prune rhododendrons to control size and shape.  Cut each stem back to just above a rosette of leaves.  Most varieties of garden-scale rhododendrons aren’t harmed by hard pruning.

Forget-me-not

Annual Flowers: If you like color & can embrace a little chaos, sow reseeding flowers including:  Blue Honeywort, Forget-me-not, Golden Feverfew, Love-in-a-mist, Sunflower & Sweet Alyssum.  These unfussy, drought-tolerant annuals will cheerily pop up for years to come.

Mulch: Maintaining a 3” layer of organic mulch throughout the garden prevents crusting & cracking of the soil surface, holds in moisture, encourages earthworms, moderates ground temperature, & prevents weeds from germinating.

Potted Plants: Feed potted specimens at least monthly with liquid fertilizer; They need it because increased summer watering washes nutrients out before plants can use them.

April: Vegetable Gardening

Vegetables you can plant in April  (NOTE: May 15th is the last average frost date in Ashland, of course this depends on your elevation)

Beets: Plant in two week intervals through June

Broccoli: Early varieties plant April to mid-May.

Brussels sprout: April through May. In late June start seeds for August transplanting. 

Cabbage: April through May 15th

Bush beans: April 15th through July  

Pole Beans: Wait until May! Plant through June

Carrots: Direct seed until June 15th

Cauliflower: Direct seed until May 31.

Chard: Direct seed until May 30th, then again in August/September for winter harvest

Chives: All month

Collards & Kale: All month, then again mid-July through September for October and winter harvest.

Leeks: Plant through May for winter harvest

Lettuce & Endive: Starts can be planted all month.

Onions: Plant by April 30th

Peas:  Plant enation-resistant varieties up until May 15th

Radishes: Direct seed by April 15th

Rhubarb: All month 

Spinach: Slow bolting varieties ( New Zealand Spinach) April 15 to 30th 

Wildflower Seed balls For Butterflies

What are seed balls?
Introduced in the 70s, seed balls are a form of “guerilla gardening” whereby seeds, soil and clay are mixed together into tidy germination bombs that are said to have an 80% higher success rate than simply broadcasting seeds onto soil.  Adding red potters’ clay to the mix protects the seeds from being blown away by wind or consumed by insects or birds.   Generally, seedballs don’t require watering and you should NOT bury or plant them.  Simply toss them in a vacant lot, your front yard, or a wildscape situation like a ranch or roadside.  Wait for the rain to melt away the clay casing, and nature will do the rest.

Texas Butterfly Ranch Seed ball Recipe

3 parts local soil or potting soil
1 – 2 parts red potter’s clay powder, also known as “terracotta powder” at pottery supply stores
1 part native wildflower seeds
Water, as needed.

Newspaper and cookie sheets for drying seedballs, and  Stainless steel bowls or pots for mixing

Assemble ingredients.

  • Mix soil, clay and wildflower seeds together in bowl.  Mix well.
  • Add water to attain dough-like consistency, much like tart or pie dough
  • Pinch off or use spoon to grab gumball-sized amounts of the mix.  Roll between your palms to get round form.  Drop onto newspaper covered cookie sheet to dry.
  • Sprinkle generously with red chile pepper.  Let set for 24 hours.
  • Once the seedballs set up, usually after 24 hours, store them in paper bags for later use or toss them right away.  Remember to use only native seeds for wildscaping situations.

SOURCE

http://texasbutterflyranch.com/2011/12/20/happy-winter-solstice-celebrate-with-

seedballs-a-recipe-and-step-by-step-directions-on-how-to-make-them/

Photo: Herder3 / CC BY-SA (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0)

In Love with Lavender

Why we Love Lavender:

  • Scent/Fragrance
  • Color
  • Easy to Grow
  • Flowers can be enjoyed fresh or dried
  • Flowers can be used in crafts, cooking & medicinally
  • Thrives in poor soil
  • Drought tolerant
  • Attracts pollinators
  • Deer and rabbit resistant

Lavender has its roots in the Mediterranean Counties. So think in terms of full, intense, hot sun and rocky stony soil that’s not especially nutrient rich, but has good drainage. Southern Oregon has ideal conditions for growing lavender.

Most garden centers offer three major species of lavender:

  • Lavandula stoechas  (aka: Spanish Lavender) – Can be recognized by it cone-like spikes, it is usually the first to bloom in late March or early April. It has a strong camphor or piney scent. This pollinator friendly is not used in cooking, crafts or in oil production, but because it is the first to bloom, it has a place in the garden; it looks nice planted in mass and provides an early food source for bees and pollinators. If pruned it may re-bloom in August or September. Not as cold hardy as English or French lavenders.
  • Lavandula angustifolia (aka: English Lavender) – English Lavender is the scent most people associate with lavender. Its colors range from white, pick, blue to deep purple. English Lavender is used for fresh cut flower, dried flowers, potpourris, cooking, and for oil distillation.  English lavender can range in size from dwarf (12 inches), semi-dwarf (20 inches) and tall (46 inches).  Plants bloom May though June and are cold hardy.  Some varieties will re-bloom if pruned after flowering.
  • Lavandula X intermedia (aka French Lavender) – French Lavender is a hybrid of L. angustifolia and L. latifolia. French Lavender blooms in mid-summer. It is one the tallest of the lavenders and its long strong stems are good for using in crafts. French lavender produces more oil than L. angustifolia, but the quality is not as fine. Plants are cold hardy.

Guide to Growing Lavender

  1. FULL SUN – 6-8 hours of sun or more. Less than six plant may become spindly and leggy and with fewer blossoms and less scent.
  2. GOOD DRAINAGE- Lavenders tolerate poor soils, but they must have good drainage.  In areas of clay amend the soil to improve drainage. Or build raised beds, or berms using compost, sand and decomposed granite to produce optimal soil for lavenders.
  3. Water Infrequently – Lavenders are drought tolerant meaning they prefer dry conditions. Once the rains ends, water once in June, then every two weeks when temperatures reach high 90s-100s. Scratch the soil’s surface, or use a water gauge to determine if the lavender needs watering.  (Note: first year water more frequently until roots are established)
  4. Pruning – Harvesting flowers is not the same a pruning. Prune lavenders at least once a year to maintain size and shape. To prune cut back about 1/3 of the plant.
  5. The best time to harvest lavender is when the bottom flowers of each stem are just beginning to open. This is when the lavender is at its most vibrant and fragrant. Cut the flowers at the base of the stems near the foliage.

Mark your calendar:
Southern Oregon Lavender Festival
June 19th, 20th, and 21st, 2020

The following are some of the Lavender varieties developed, or identified, by Oregon Lavender growers:

  • Betty’s Blue,
  • Buena Vista,
  • Melissa,
  • Premier,
  • Royal Velvet,
  • Sachet,
  • Sharon Roberts,
  • Ana Luisa,
  • Jennifer
  • Goodwin Creek

Article by: Rosenelle Florencechild, Jackson County Master Gardener, and JCMG Lavender Garden’s Manager & Head Gardener

 Nurturing Your Plants

By: Sherri Morgan
Garden club members participated in this discussion by stating which plants they fertilize in their own gardens, among those named were:  Annual Vegetables, Flowering Shrubs, such as roses and rhododendrons, Lawns, Perennials (especially when first planted and after division), Fruit Trees and Container Plants.

The Big “3” Explained
Nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, (NPK) are the “Big 3” primary nutrients in commercial fertilizers.  These numbers indicate the percentages of Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potassium by weight in the package.  A mnemonic for remembering what each element contributes to plant health is:

UP (N) Nitrogen –  Nitrogen is considered to be the most important nutrient as it promotes leaf growth and color, plus it is essential in the formation of protein.

DOWN (P) Phosphorus  – Phosphorus promotes root growth, and when in the form of Phosphoric acid, it helps plants set flower buds.  Phosphorus also helps plants with the process of photosynthesis as well as storing energy.

ALL AROUND (K) Potassium – Potassium strengthens a plant’s ability to resist diseases. It helps produce sturdy stems, strong roots, and promotes growth.

There are many different types of fertilizers, both organic, non-organic:  Bulb Food, Orchid Food, Acid Fertilizers, and Balanced Fertilizers, to name a few.  Each package has its own instructions explaining which plants benefit from that particular fertilizer, and includes how much to apply and how often. Sherri empathized, “Read the label; follow the directions for amount and frequency; more is not better!”

Plants do not always need “feeding” every year, it depends on your soil and its health. For instance, clay soil holds on the nutrients better than decompose granite. A good system for fertilizing is:  

  • Apply at the beginning, and then again midway through a growth cycle. Exception for rhododendrons: a member suggested rodies should be fertilized after then bloom.
  • Apply more frequently to rapidly growing vegetables, such as tomatoes, and for container plants, where the nutrients leach out with each watering.

Compost – Compost is nature’s way of fertilizing.  Decayed organic matter, especially in the end, forms humus, which feeds microorganisms that in turn feed the plant.  Leaving your leaves on the ground around trees and shrubs will help them grow well.

Organic Fertilizer – Sherri was asked whether using organic fertilizers was important, considering they cost more, and are “slower-acting” than synthetic fertilizers.  She stated the energy used to produce synthetic fertilizers is high, plus synthetic fertilizers can damage soil health by salt build-up.  They also cause environmental damages when they leach into rivers and the ocean, and into drinking water. Studies have linked overuse of synthetic fertilizers to dead zones in the oceans, increases in certain types of cancer, and birth defects.

Organic fertilizers are derived from organic materials, such as blood meal, kelp meal, bone meal, etc.  These feed the soil microorganisms and help improve soil health.  They stay attached to soil particles, so they are longer lasting, and their action is more like what would occur in nature.

Fertilizers are only accessible to plants when broken down by soil microorganisms, and when in solution, so it is important to water your plants before, during and after using fertilizer.  

BIO: Sherri Morgan is a Landscape Designer and Master Gardener.  She is a member of the Ashland Garden Club and past president of the Jackson County Master Gardeners Association.  Sherri also teaches in the practicum portion of JCMG classes and designed of the fertilizer curriculum.