Re-Think: WORMS! WOW!

An Information Source for Reducing/Reusing/
Recycling and Beyond

March 2011

Have you ever thought of worms in your laundry room?Wigglers in your office? Or heaven forbid- critters in your kitchen?!Pretty scary thought-right?Maybe not-listen to what I have to say and you might change your mind.

Let me introduce you to vermiculture.Vermiculture is a term used to describe worm composting.Worms eat organic waste and produce some of the best compost around, known as worm castings or vermicompost.During this process worms do an excellent job digesting food wastes, breaking them down into simple plant nutrients. These nutrients are immediately available to plants; something that every gardener (and plant)will love.Worm composting has other great advantages.It can be done indoors or outdoors and even provides apartment or condo dwellers a way of composting when outdoor space is limited.Basically, all you need is a container filled with moistened bedding and of course, worms.Add food waste to the mix and the worms and micro-organisms will convert the entire contents into wonderful compost.Pretty simple- huh?!

Ready to get started?Select a container.It can be either wood or plastic and should be between 8”-12” deep.Simply drill 8-112 holes (1/4”-1/2”) in the bottom of the container for aeration and ventilation (worms need air to survive).The bin also needsa cover to provide darkness for the wigglers and to conserve moisture.If the worm container will be kept indoors a sheet of dark plastic or cloth draped over the top will suffice.If the bin is placed outdoors a solid lid is preferable to discourage unwanted critters and to keep out the rain.Place the worm bin on wooden blocks or bricks and place a tray underneath to catch excess liquid which can then be used as a compost tea for plants.Worm bins can be placed indoors all year round with temperature between 40-80 degrees- ideal to keep worms happy.Any location will work; make it convenient for you.If you will be placing your bin outdoors it can be placed in shed and garages or on patios etc.Don’t place it in direct sunlight and keep in mind that it might need to be moved if temperatures drop below 40 degrees.

Now that you have prepared your bin and have selected a spot to put it, the next step is to provide bedding.Bedding can be shredded newspaper, chopped up straw, shredded fall leaves etc.Toss in a couple handfuls of sand or soil.This will provide grit to aid the worm’s digestive process.The next step is to moisten the bedding.Add water until the bedding feels like a wrung-out sponge and then fluff it up to create air spaces.Fill the bin about ¾ full with the moistened bedding.

Now you are ready for the worms!Don’t be tempted to add earthworms or night crawlers; these are very beneficial in other areas but not as vermiculture candidates.One of the best types of worms for vermiculture are red wigglers.I’ll include a local source for these at the end of this article.

Worms eat many of the foods that we eat.Some ideas on preferable foods for worms are vegetable scraps, fruit peels, tea bags, coffee grounds etc.Avoid meats, oily foods, dairy products or grains.

I have only provided basic vermiculture information here but hopefully it has been enough to peak your interest in starting a worm bin of your own.

Rhianna Simes, OSU Extension Land Steward Coordinator for Jackson County Soil and Water Conservation District, is a source of additional information on vermicultureSchedule an appointment with her and she will share her knowledge on maintenance, harvesting, answer all questions and even give you a tour of her worm bins!She also has red wigglers available for purchase so you can get started!You might also consider reading Worms Eat My Garbage by Mary Appelhof.It is an informative book that offers useful and practical ideas about worm composting and vermiculture.

Now- red wigglers in a bin in the corner of your laundry room eating your kitchen scraps and producingthe best compost EVER, doesn’t sound like such a bad idea after all- does it?!Just think of them as “pets” that your plants will love!

Carla DiFabion,
Master Recycler

Additional information:
Rhianna Simes
Land Steward Program Coordinator
OSU Extension Jackson County Soil and Water Conservation District rhianna.simes@oregonstate.edu
541-776-7371

Worms Eat My Garbage
by: Mary Appelhof

Think in Gardens

Greetings Ashland Garden Club Members,
My friend, Anne Guy, the British garden designer, just let me know about a very interesting new website, which has been established in partnership with the Royal Horticultural Society.
It’s called: Think in Gardens and concerns itself with the following:
*The Contemporary aesthetics of gardens
*Gardens as they relate to the arts
*The value of gardens to non-gardeners
*The importance of gardens to society
*The relationship between gardeners & contemporary philosophy
The site is full of erudite essays, along with gorgeous photos.
Here’s the link: http://thinkingardens.co.uk

Nan Quick

Anne Guy’s website: http://www.anneguygardendesigns.co.uk/

 

Mid-Winter Madness

The English writer Beverley Nichols wrote in his book Down the Garden Path, “We are in the depths of winter….my first winter at the cottage…and the first winter when I went mad.” Isn’t this the feeling all gardeners have in the middle of winter when snow blankets our landscape and we stare out our windows into our gardens dreaming of vibrant multicolored flowers overflowing in our flower beds, the sweet scent of flowers filling our noses, and the sun warming our backs, as we weed.
Mr. Nichols poetically expresses a gardener’s dilemma in winter time when he writes, “ The average gardener, in the cold dark days of December and January, sits by his fire, turning over the pages of seed catalogs, wondering what he should sow for the spring.”

Does this sound familiar?

He continues writing, “If he goes out into his garden at all, it is only for the sake of exercise. He puts on a coat, stamps up and down the frozen path, hardly deigns to glance at the black empty beds, turns in again”. He says after his first winter, when he went mad, he declared he would have flowers in the winter time, real flowers, to get him through the dark cold days of winter.His friends, and neighbors, told him this desire for winter flowers was insane, he stated, “perhaps it was”, but flowers he would have.

The following are a few of the winter flowers he grew to get him through until spring.

Winter Flowers

Helleborus niger……. Christmas rose

The Christmas rose is a traditional cottage garden favorite. It bears its pure white flowers (which fades to pink) in the depths of winter. They should be planted in partial shade, preferably under deciduous trees, which gives them winter sunlight. Plant in fertile, well-draining moist soil and protect them from strong winter winds. Height 8” USDA Hardiness Zones 3 to 8

Galanthus nivalis……Common Snowdrops

The common snowdrop looks like three drops of milk hanging from a stem. It is a bulbous plant in the Amaryllis family. Most flower in winter, before the vernal equinox (March 21st in the N. Hemisphere), but certain species flower in early spring and late autumn. Some snowdrop species are threatened in their wild habitats, and in most countries it is now illegal to collect bulbs from the wild. Good for mass plantings.
Height: less than 6″ USDA Hardiness Zones 3 to 8

 

Galanthus elwesii…Giant Snowdrop

Giant clear white fragrant flowers with predominant green inner segments Blooms 6 weeks earlier than the common snowdrop. Woodland plant. Performs best in the shade and in rich well-drained soil. Height: 12” USDA Hardiness Zones 3 to 8

Jasminum nudiflorum…..Winter Jasmine

Winter Jasmine is known to be one of the earliest blooming plants in the landscape. The 1″-wide yellow blooms open in January to March prior to the leaves but, unlike most jasmines, are not fragrant. The trailing branches root where they contact bare soil. Fill in areas if you like or support with a trellis. Plant in full sun to partial sun, in well-drained soils. Height 15’ USDA Hardiness Zones 6 to 10

Hamamelis mollis……Chinese Witch hazel

This ornamental deciduous shrub is known for its strongly scented flowers. It flowers in late January or early February and produces spider-like flowers which are long lasting. Plant in full sun to partial shade in moist fertile acidic soils. Height 10-12 feet (slow growing) USDA Hardiness Zones 5 to 8

 

 

Lonopsidium acaule…False diamond flower (aka: violet cress)

Violet cress is a low growing annual plant with tiny pale lilac flowers appearing in early spring smelling like honey. It is Ideal for rock walls and edging plants. They need partial to deep shade with moist well-drained soil. Violet cress has naturalized in California through self-seeding, but they are not native to the U.S.; the USDA considers it an escaped weed!
Height 3-4” USDA Hardiness Zone: 3 to 9

Eranthis….….Winter aconite

Winter aconite i s a member of the butter-cup family. All parts of this plant are poisonous, although its acrid taste m akes poisoning a low risk. Winter aconite blooms in late January or early February and blankets the ground with small, sunny, yellow blooms. Plant in well drained hum us-rich soil. This plant dies down completely after spring. It’s a good companion with snowdrops. Self seeds.
Height 8” USDA Hardiness Zone: 4 to 9
Eranthis – “A butter cup field in January. That is what the aconite will do for you…”, Beverley Nichols, Down the Garden Path.

Chimonanthus fragans……Wintersweet

Hard to find old-fashioned deciduous shrub, but worth the search. The buds form in the fall and grow larger with each warm winter’s day. It can take three to five years to reach bloom stage, but it’s attractive in all seasons with tapered leaves on arching branches, which turn clear yellow in the fall. Easy to grow. Plant in sun or part shade and where you can walk by and enjoy its perfume.
Height 8-10’ USDA Hardiness Zone: 7 to 9

“If they (Wintersweet) are cut in bud, they lasted (in a vase), with the discreet assistance of a tablet of aspirin,…. nearly a month. Their perfume was as sweet and delicate as anything you could desire.” Beverley Nichols, Down the Garden Path.

 

Crocus imperati…..Early crocus

Lilac flowers with outside of outer petals buff, marked with dark purple. A reliable bloomer. Blooms in December or January. Plant in well drained soil, in the sun. Height 6” USDA Hardiness zone: 3 to 8

 

Crocus sieberis…….Snow crocus

A small, very early spring blooming, crocus which naturalizes easily and is ideal for rock gardens, under trees and shrubs, borders, and large drifts. Colors vary from white, blue, mauve, purple, having areas of white, yellow, or orange in the throat. Plant in well drained soil.
Height 3-4” USDA Hardiness Zone: 3 to 8

Corylopsis Spicata……Spike Winterhazel

Deciduous shrub with open, bushy, upright, spreading, picturesque branches. Flowers are clear yellow in 1 to 2″ drooping clusters blooms in later winter and early spring. Fragrant. New leaf growth is dark purple and matures to deep blue-green. Plant in sun to partial shade. Do not over water. Height 6-8’ USDA Hardiness Zone: 6 to 8

 

 

Daphne meszerum – February Daphne

February Daphne is a deciduous to semi-evergreen shrub. Vibrant lilac-purple, neon pink or white flowers bloom on naked twigs in February and have a deliciously potent fragrance . It has thin soft green leaves in the summer followed by brilliant scarlet berries in September. Unlike other Daphnes, D. meszerum likes more sun and summer irrigation. Plant in well drained porous soil. Height 3-4’ USDA Hardiness Zone:5 to 8

“…learn this by heart: “The Daphne mezereum loves it roots in the shade and its head in the sun….” Beverley Nichols, Down the Garden Path

Daphne odora- Winter Daphne

Winter Daphne is a handsome evergreen plant with powerful fragrant flowers. Pink to deep red flowers displayed in nosegay-clusters at the end of its branches. Blooms from February through April. Daphne odora needs air around its roots so plant in humus-rich semi-porous soil. Prefers mid-afternoon shade. Height: 4’ USDA Hardiness Zone: 4 to 10, 12, 14-24

Lonicera fragrantissima …..Winter Honeysuckle

Winter Honeysuckle is a deciduous shrub, in the nor thern states. Its creamy-white flowers are borne on naked twigs in February and produce a sweet lemony fragrance. Budded branches will bloom in doors for winter bouquets. Height 8-10’ USDA Hardiness Zone: 5 to 9

Please note: The U.S. Forrest Service listed Lonicera fragrantissima as a persistent invasive threat to native habitats, especially in the southern states region.

Sternbergia lutea…Winter Daffodil (aka: Fall daffodil)

Winter daffodils have vibrant yellow, crocus-like blooms. They require a sunny location with well-drained, humus-rich soil and wind protection. The bulb can develop bulb rot if planted in too moist of an area. It produces crocus-like leaves after flowering, which lasts through the winter. These bulbs are touted as hardy bulbs but they are native to warmer winter regions so they are really semi-hardy because they can be injured at temperatures below 28°F. Need winter protection: plant in pots then move indoors, or into a greenhouse, for the winter. Note: Do not plant in the drip line of trees. Height 6-10” USDA Hardiness Zone:5 to 9

Sternbergia lutea – “…though its petals may be frozen with impunity, and though it will stand any amount of wind…it hates being dribbled upon.” Beverley Nichols, Down the Garden Path

Petasites fragrans….Winter Heliotrope

Winter heliotrope has lilac to pink flowers that smells like vanilla. It’s a garden-escaped wildflower due to seed propagation, difficult to control spreading. It flowers November through to February. Grows in warm climates. Height 6-8” USDA Hardiness Zone: 9 to 10

Iris stylosa …Winter Iris

This little beardless dwarf iris is sometimes called the Algerian iris. It’s lavender-blue flowers has a lemony-vanilla aroma. Planting them against a sunny wall will lessen their exposure to winter cold and encourage early blooming. Plant in well drained soil and do not water in the summer when dormant. Height 6-9” USDA Hardiness Zone: 4 to 9

*Another late-winter Iris: Iris reticulate: Blooms in mid-February in shades of blue & purple. Height 3”-6”

Forsythia intermedia…..Forsythia

A deciduous shrub with upright spreading branches. Vigorous grower. Blooms in early March though April with very showy yellow blooms lasting 2 to 3 weeks. Plant in full sun to partial shade. It is very adaptable to poor soils, but prefers moist, well-drained soils. Plant in full sun. Height 8-10’ USDA Hardiness Zone: 4 to 8

 

Erica carnea…..Winter Heath

A dwarf evergreen shrub native to the European Alps which persist even under the snow. It often blooms at Christmas (“Winter Beauty”). Flowers are borne individually on the stem in masses of bell-shaped blossoms. Colors range from creamy white, rich pink, to deep ruby red (“ Ruby Glow”). Plant in well drained humus-rich soil. It needs partial shade in hotter areas. Spreads to 3 feet, so give it room. Prune yearly to prevent “legginess”.
Height 12-18” USDA Hardiness Zone: 2 to 10

“They are adorable, these clumps of winter heather. Actually they seem to welcome the snow, for it enhances their sweet complexions.” Beverley Nichols, Down the Garden Path

By: Carlotta Lucas

Timely Tips for Dividing Plants

·Study the plant you wish to divide. Is it a good candidate for root division?Does it grow from the outside of its root clump? Does it make new bulbs? Does it make suckers?

·Figure out where you want to put the divisions and prepare ground, have pots and soil ready.

·Use shovel to dig around the plant to be removed. Use spading forks to lift and separate the clumps. With offshoots use clippers to cut umbilical root.Cut 1/3 tops off. For roots to be separated, wash off dirt enough to see where the eyes, plantlets are so each new division has new growth.

·Keep moist and plant soon in new location. Fertilize every other week until mid-summer then stop to let plant harden off for winter. Keep well weeded and mulched.

·For most plants late winter early spring is the optimum time to divide.For bulbs, primrose, iris, divide after bloom.For peonies fall is best.

·You can divide horse radish, rhubarb and French terragon

·Plants not easily divided: needled and non-needled evergreens (azalea, Rhodies, holly, laurel), many trees,blueberry,annuals, some perennials with single tap roots.

REFERENCE:

Secrets of Plant Propagation by Lewis Hill(a paperback)

Favorite Flowers of Tasha Tudor

From: Tasha Tudor’s Garden Ashland Garden Club Book Club: January Reading

Green house: Orange Jasmine (Murryana exotica), Clivias, Canary Island Broom (Cytisus canariensis), Acacia, Primrose, pelargoniums, rosemary standards, camellias

Early Spring: Snow drops, crocus, scilla, chionodoxa

Forced Bulbs: Paper whites, ‘Tete-a-Tete’ narcissus, ‘Minnow’ narcissus, tulips, lily of the valley, not forsythia

Primrose: Auricula, Barnhaven, ‘Juliana’ hybrids, ‘Cowichan’

Daffodils/narcissus: ‘King Alfred’, ‘Cheerfulness’, ‘Tete a Tete’, ‘Minnow’, ‘Irish Moon’/ Narcissus poeticus ‘plena’

Tulips: ‘Beauty Queen’ (salmon colored), ‘Apricot Beauty’, ‘Peerless Pink’, ‘Elizabeth Arden’, ’Lafayette”, (blue), Mrs. John T. Scheepers’ (blue/yellow)

Peonies: ‘Festiva Maxima’, ‘Mother’s Chooice’, ‘Nick Shaylor’, ‘Sarah Bernhardt’

Roses: David Austin hybrids, ‘Heritage’, ‘Mary Webb’ (yellow), ‘Maiden’s Blush’, York and Lancaster, Konigin von Danemark’, Rosa canina

Misc: Bleeding Hearts, Crown Imperials, Mock Orange, Weigela, violas, Forget-,Me-Nots, Lilacs, Crab Apple Trees, Azaleas, English Bluebells, Rocket,

Summer:

Lupines, oxeye daisy, Dame’s Rocket, St. John’s wort, yellow clover, black eyed Susan and Echinacea, Wild strawberries, White valerian, lady’s mantle thalictrum, fragrant alyssum, cinnamon pinks, Nepeta, lamb’s ears, delphinium, lettuce poppy, cleomes, feverfew, hollyhocks, sweet peas, Shasta Daisy, iris, Sidalcea, white dragonhead (Phystegia)

Annuals: verbena, geranium (pelargoniums), pansies heliotrope, petunias,

Miniature Rose: ‘The Fairy’ (pink), ‘Rise and Shine’ (yellow)

Vines: clematis tangutica, honeysuckle, Clematis paniculata, wisteria

Lilies: Lilium regale, ‘Black Dragon’, oriental hybrids, Asiatic hybrids,

Raspberries: ‘Latham’, ‘September Gold’

Peaches: Elwyn Meader’s ‘Reliance