Tag Archives: Home Gardening Tips

Cleaning Your Garden Tools

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Initial Cleaning

  • Remove Loose Debris: Use a brush or a stiff brush to remove any loose dirt, leaves, or other debris
  • from your tools.
  • Wash with Soap and Water: Dip the tools in a bucket of soapy water (dish soap or detergent) and scrub thoroughly to remove dirt and grime.
  • Rinse Thoroughly: Rinse the tools under running water to remove all soap residue.

Disinfection (Recommended):

  • Bleach Solution: For a quick and effective disinfection, soak the cleaned tools in a chlorine bleach solution (1 part bleach to 9 parts water) for about 10 minutes, then rinse and dry thoroughly.
  • Alcohol Solution: Isopropyl alcohol (70-100%) can also be used for disinfection. Dip the tools in the alcohol solution, allow them to air dry, and then dry the tools thoroughly.  Add Isopropyl alcohol into a handheld sprayer and spray shears between each plant you prune.

Rust Prevention:

  • Dry tools:  Completely dry tools before storing them, otherwise moisture can lead to rust.
  • Apply Oil: To prevent rust, apply a thin layer of mineral oil, linseed oil, or WD-40 to metal parts, especially after cleaning.
  • Soak in Sand: For a quick way to clean and oil tools mix some linseed oil in a bucket of sand and then stab the tool into the sand a few times.

Specific Tool Cleaning:

  • Pruning Shears/Pruners: Disassemble pruners, wash each part individually with warm, soapy water, and scrub any sap or sticky residue left behind.
  • Disinfect Pruning Shears: Add Isopropyl alcohol into a handheld sprayer and spray shears between each plant pruning.

Cultivation Tools (Spades, Hoes, Forks, Rakes, Trowels): Use a stiff scrubbing brush to remove any soil from the blade and shaft.

Rusty Tools: Soak rusty tools in vinegar for several hours to loosen rust, then scrub with steel wool or a wire brush. After removing the rust, neutralize vinegar with a baking soda and water solution.

Tips for Larger Tools:
If your tools are too large to fit in a container, wrap them in a cloth soaked with vinegar and salt, then place them in a plastic bag. Check the tools periodically to see if the rust has softened. When rust is loose, then follow “After Soaking” steps.
 

Important Note: Vinegar is a mild acid, so it can dissolve and pit steel if left on for too long.

Article & Photo by: Carlotta Lucas, AGC Member

Planting for Drought Tolerance and Deer Resistance

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Article By: Christie Mackison, Shooting Star Nursery

Destructive deer and hot, dry summers are two very common issues in the Rogue Valley. Drought tolerant and deer resistant plants are a good combination to aim for because the qualities in plants that repel deer can often be found in drought tolerant species- such as heavy oil content, textured or hairy foliage, strong odors, and tough, less succulent leaves. The key to keeping drought tolerant plants happy and more unpalatable to deer is to give them the habitat they are used to- so don’t water them every day just because its 90 degrees!

Drought Tolerant Plants:

No heavy fertilizing: Use only organic or slow release fertilizer if called for at time of planting. If the plants look yellow it is usually from too much water, not lack of fertilizer. Plus over fertilizing will attract deer.

Dedicate an area to drought tolerant plants: Don’t mix plants that need regular water with drought tolerant plants. Do not put them on the same irrigation system & timer or one group will suffer.

Do not over water! It’s best to plant drought tolerant plants in early spring or early fall so they can get established with the rains.

Once established many plants do not need summer water. They will only need an occasional deep soak.
Don’t plant them where they will get extra water from lawn areas or runoff from other irrigated areas.

Good drainage is usually essential but if you don’t have it, you’ll probably have to water even less.

How to get good drainage:

Mound up soil when making new beds or planting a new plant. Create a berm. Plant drought tolerant plants on a hillside or slope.

Mulch with at least a 1″ layer of 1/4-inch gravel to keep dirt from rotting the crown of plant, it helps retain moisture during heat and keep plant roots warmer in winter.

For clay soil amend with 1/4 inch gravel (sharp edge, no fines) and compost, it will help break down clay over time.

 How to water drought tolerant plants:

Observe:  Most plants need to dry out before the next watering- stick your finger a few inches into soil (well below mulch, which will feel dry), if it is cool and damp, don’t need to water yet.

Infrequent But Deep Soak: This trains plants to have deep roots, not shallow. Often a deep soak every 2 weeks in heat of summer is enough- easier to do with drip irrigation than sprinklers

Watering rule of thumb (depends on site and soil type):

1st year of planting water deeply once a week for first month of summer,
Then water once every 2 weeks for 2nd and 3rd month of summer
Water once a month the 2nd summer and don’t water again.

 How to find drought tolerant plants:

Look to natives they can tolerate summer drought and winter wet

Look to Mediterranean plants- they have a similar climate to the Rogue  Valley

Also cold hardy Australian and northern California plants,  and hardy desert plants/succulents.

Get help from your local nursery!- at Shooting Star Nursery we’ve talked to countless customers and worked in our own gardens and have seen what works here in the valley.

How to find deer resistant plants

Deer can be very neighborhood specific so look around your neighborhood. Drive or walk around heavy populated deer areas like Ashland, Jacksonville, and in the hills of east Medford. Observe what has been chewed.

Read lists, but be ready to experiment

Use Liquid Fence, Plantskydd, or similar product on all new plantings to discourage initial browsing.

Use cages around most new trees to prevent antler damage and new growth chewing.

Deer damage can depend on the time of year you plant- deer are especially hungry in fall and winter they can graze on almost anything.

Use poisonous, strongly scented or sharply textured plants (grasses, sometimes prickly/thorny textures, fuzzy/hairy leaves, pine needles, etc.)

Talk to your local nursery- we know from our experiences and those of our customers and landscapers what has worked and what hasn’t.

Pruning Roses   

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Roses are pruned to encourage new growth and healthy flowers during the growing season.  The time to prune roses depends on the type of rose your pruning. Roses that flower once a season are pruned right after they flower.  Roses that flower throughout the season are pruned when buds start to swell and become green. In Southern Oregon, Zone 8, this is typically mid- February to early March .

By-pass pruner

Tools Needed:
1)   Good pair of leather gloves,
2)   Sharp By-pass garden pruner, (recommended)
3)   Possibly: a medium to larger tree pruner and a handheld pruning saw.
Having sharp tools is imperative for making good clean cuts on branches.  Also, it’s important to disinfect every tool between each rose, because tools can transfer disease and viruses to other plants if not disinfected properly.

Disinfecting Tools:
1)   Isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol) is ideal for sanitizing pruning tools because the blades can be wiped, or dipped into it. Most rubbing alcohols contain 70% isopropyl alcohol, which can be used straight from the bottle.  Rubbing alcohol has a strong fumes, so avoid inhaling.

2)   A solution made of chlorine bleach can also be used as a disinfectant, but unlike alcohol, bleach must be diluted before using and blades must be soaked for 30 minutes for disinfection to really work.  To make a 10% bleach solution: mix one part bleach to nine parts of water. Remember to: avoid inhalation of fumes, wear rubber gloves to prevent contact with skin, and protect your clothing from the bleach and  bleach water. This bleach solution must be used within two hours of mixing, because it losses 50% of its effectiveness after two hours.  After soaking tools in bleach solution, rinse them with clean water to prevent corrosion, and wipe dry. Be aware that chlorine bleach it is not as effective against viruses as rubbing alcohol.

Steps to Pruning: 
1)  Start by removing dead and diseased canes; brown is dead, green is alive.
2)  Tip back brown stems until you see green in the cane.
3)  Remove all thin weak canes; if it’s thinner than a pencil remove it.
4)  Open up the center by taking out crossing branches. Branches that rub cause damage and encourage disease.
5)  Removing center canes allows air-flow which helps control diseases.

 Making the Cut:
Common practice is to make a slight 45-degree angle cut ¼-inch above an outward facing bud. Cutting to an outward facing bud encourages growth away from the center of the rose to provide better air-flow. An angled cut is said to allow moisture to run off the cut. While some rose growers say angled cuts are unnecessary, everyone agrees if the cut is too steep it weakens and/or damages the new bud, so cut at a “slight” angle.

Rose Structure:
The goal is to have an open structure with upward reaching branches in the shape of a vase.
How much  top pruning is done depends on the type of rose.  Typically, only 1/3 of the total height of a rose should be removed, unless an extremely neglected rose shrub needs hard pruning to reshape and repair. ( See examples of Hard, Moderate, Light Pruning in the drawing below)

Seal Cane Cuts:
Seal cut ends of all canes 3/16-inch diameter and larger with white Elmer’s multi-purpose glue, not school glue, or white water-base Tacky Glue, found in craft stores. This forms a barrier to deter cane boring insects from drilling into the pithy middle of rose canes, where they lay their eggs. In some cases, a boring insect can bore deep enough to kill the entire cane, and sometimes the whole rose bush.

Article By: Carlotta Lucas, Ashland Garden Club Member

Resource Article:
Barbara McMullen
Master Gardener OSU Extension

Drawings from Oregon State University webpage on Pruning Roses.  Rose Pruning: https://extension.oregonstate.edu/gardening/flowers-shrubs-trees/pruning-roses

Read more on Rose Borers: https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/flowers/roses/controlling-rose-cane-borers.htm

Providing water for birds in winter

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From the National Wildlife Federation  https://blog.nwf.org/2014/12/dont-forget-water-for-birds-in-winter/

Here are some tips for easily—and safely—providing water for wildlife during the cold months:

Dark Eyed Junco
  1. Before the cold sets in, replace delicate solar or fountain birdbaths with sturdier, winter-ready water features. Because ice can cause cracks and leaks, concrete baths should be stored or covered in winter.
  2. Place baths in a sunny area to make them more visible to birds and to help keep the water liquid.
  3. While birds are unlikely to submerge themselves in very cold weather, you can help them stay dry and drink more easily by adding several stones to the bath or placing a few sticks on top that the animals can use as perches.
  4. Even during winter, birdbaths (as well as feeders) should be cleaned regularly.
  5. To keep water from freezing, consider adding an immersion-style water heater. More recent models will turn off if the water in the bath dries up.
  6. If using a heater, add a ground-fault interrupted circuit (available at hardware stores) to prevent electric shorts. Check that cords and outlets are sheltered from snow or ice buildup.
  7. As a homemade alternative to a heater, place a light bulb in a flower pot and put a small water basin on top of the pot.
  8. A simpler option—particularly if you have no outdoor electric outlet—is to buy several heavy-duty plant saucers that will not be cracked by ice and replace frozen baths with fresh ones each morning.
  9. Avoid adding glycerin to a birdbath as antifreeze; if birds ingest too much, it can dangerously elevate their blood-sugar levels. Glycerin solutions also may mat birds feathers, decreasing insulation at a time when the animals need it most.

Posted by: Carlotta Lucas,

Photo by: Jocelyn Anderson, CC BY 3.0 https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Gardening Tips: Gladiolus

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*Marjorie’s Burgundy Gladiolus!

Dividing Gladiolus Bulbs

Gently pull out of the ground and let them dry. See the very bottom bulb with the white roots? This is the “mother”, she has produced three big babies. After the plants dry, separate babies from the mother; sadly, the mother gets thrown out. Store baby bulbs in a paper bag where then can stay dry and be kept above freezing. Replant in the spring. ~Melody Jones, AGC Member

Member, *Marjorie Hoeft, shared gladiolus bulbs with other members at a club meeting.

Photos by: Melody Jones

Ashland: Wildfire Safety

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“As of Oct 2018 all homes within the City of Ashland, Oregon are considered to be in the Wildfire Hazard Zone. In addition, forested lands in and around the city lead into the Ashland Creek Watershed, the source of the City’s drinking water. Fires have been a frequent visitor to our landscape and will return due to accidents or lightning strikes. Fire plays a natural role in our forest ecosystem but can threaten homes and lives in our town. Wildfire awareness is essential to living in a wildfire hazard zone. Ashland Fire and Rescue is a valuable resource for homeowners and citizens concerned with wildfire in Ashland. The resources located here include plans, maps, and detailed information for homeowners and citizens.”   Resource: https://www.ashland.or.us/ashland_wildfire_safety

Firewise Plant list: ashland.or.us/plants