The under-explored vegetable: Daikon Radish

Daikon Radish: There are over a hundred varieties of daikon radishes, but to most people in America this root is a vegetable of mystery.  Daikon radishes are popular in Japan, Taiwan, Korea and China, so in the states it is often found in Asian grocery stores, ethnic specialty stores or growers markets where large Asian-American populations occur.  But, luckily for us, most of Ashland’s grocery stores carry daikon radish year round   

Daikon radish is a member of Brassica family; a cool weather vegetable. This tuber forms a large cylindrical tap root 12-20 inches long and 2-4 inches in diameter. Its root pushes deep in the soil like a giant carrot, but leaves 2 to 6 inches protruding above the ground. Its skin is pale green or all white, similar to a turnip.  The flavor is tangy with a crisp juicy texture, and depending on the variety, it can be a mild to fiery hot, like a horseradish.  Its mildness or hotness also depends on growing conditions and the amount of water it receives during the growing season.

Daikon radish origins trace back to the Mediterranean and Black Sea coasts. It found its way to Japan approximately 1,300 years ago where it became popular nationwide in the Edo period (1603-1868). Many varieties of the daikon radishes are near extinction due to the lack of commercial value, but a few specialty farmers, especially in Japan, are growing heirloom varieties for chefs and these prized radishes can fetch a high price.  But the most cultivated daikon radish for the world market is the Aokubi Daikon, which is a milder sweeter variety.  Japan produces 90% of the worlds Daikon radish crop, and they consume most of this crop as well.

In the United States there is growing interest to use daikon radish as a winter cover crop. Some of this crop is used for consumption, but most of it is plowed under to add nitrogen to the soil.  Purdue University reports that daikon radish as a winter cover crop suppresses weeds in fall and winter, helps break up compacted soil, and because its contains a lot of water, it decomposes in a short period of time providing a flush of nitrogen for early spring crops.

Daikon radish can be consumed raw, cooked, or pickled. You can shred it to use in salads for a crisp crunchy texture and a peppery bite. You can add thin slices into miso soup, or braise it in thick chunks for stews. Boiling daikon chunks in water for 30 minutes then adding to a recipe allows the radish to absorb the flavors of the dish. Amazingly, this root holds its shape and texture after an hour of cooking.   The tops are edible too; sauté in oil until wilted then add seasonings.  Daikon Radish seeds are readily available because daikon radish mico-greens are popular.  

To start your sprouts, soak seeds in a bowl of cool water for 6 hours, or overnight, making sure seeds are submersed. This softens the seed coat and promotes germination. Grow as mico-greens, or sow directly into the garden for mature vegetables.  OSU Department of Horticulture states in Oregon daikon radishes require a full growing season to reach maturity and for the best root quality and development irrigate well to maintain uniform, vigorous growth.    USDA Hardiness Zone 2-11

Daikon Radish Salad –   https://www.japancentre.com/en/recipes/1313-daikon-salad

Miso Soup https://www.japancentre.com/en/recipes/1534-daikon-radish-and-abura-age-fried-tofu-miso-soup

Article by: Carlotta Lucas

Home Grown Potatoes

Growing your own potatoes is an easy and rewarding gardening experience.growing potatoes
Plant starts in early spring, as soon as the soil can be worked.
Potato plants can withstand a light frost, but protect against a hard frost.
Potato plants need at least 6 hours of sunlight a day to produce.
Harvest potatoes in 2-4 months; this depends on your area’s growing season.
Purchase good quality seed potatoes to insure a healthy crop.

Oregon Territorial Seed company in Cottage Grove, Oregon offers some interesting  seed potato varieties:  http://www.territorialseed.com/

  • Dark Red Norland Potatoes
  • Blue Potatoes (Late-season 110-135 days)
  • Yukon Gem Potatoes
  • Desiree Potatoes
  • German Butterball Potatoes
  • Mountain Rose Potatoes
  • Purple Majesty Potatoes

The Rogue Valley Grange Co-ops may have some of these varieties available, too.

Seed Prep:  Seed potatoes are tubers which can be planted whole, but you will get more plants if you cut seed potatoes into sections. Each cut section should contain one or two sprouts; these sprouts are called  eyes.  Each section should have enough potato “meat” around each eye for successful growing.  Therefore,  cut seed potatoes into 2 to 3 inch chunks, with 1-2 eyes in each chunk.  Set these pieces on a protective surface like newspaper to allow cut edges to dry before planting,  usually 24-48 hours.

Planting:
In the ground – Dig a trench 8 inches deep. Plant each seed potato section, 1 inch deep and 12 inches apart. Planting rows should be spaced 3 feet apart.  Place the seed potato cut side down with eye(s) pointing up.  As the plants grow, and when leaves are just starting to break the soil’s surface,  mound another 2 inches of soil on top of the plants.  Repeat this step until the trench is filled with soil,  continue filling until the trench is mounded .    Note:  If your space is limited,  or  if you want only baby potatoes,  you can decrease the spacing between the plants to 7 inches.

Planting in Containers – Note: Containers must be able to drain.
Growing in containers is the same principal as growing in the ground.  Place  6 inches of moistened soil in the bottom of a container.  Plant prepped seed potatoes cut side down with eyes up.  Cover with 2-3 inches of soil. As the potato plants grow keep adding 2-3 inches of soil over the plants.   Repeat this step until the container is full of soil.  You can even stack additional containers on top of the original container, filling those with soil in steps.  The height limit is approximately 3 feet.

Planting in Straw
With this method you don’t have to dig potatoes, you simply pull them out of the straw. Because straw starts to break down as the growing season progresses,  you will need to add straw to maintain a consistent straw depth. In short: Top off your potato bed with straw during the growing season.

Prep potatoes as described above.  Lay out a loose layer of straw 6-inches deep, and place seed potatoes in the straw, cut side down, eyes up.  Cover with 2 inches of straw. When you see the leaves peaking out of the straw, cover them with 2 inches of straw. Then, repeat this until you reached your desired height.

Care:

  • Potatoes should be watered regularly, but do not over water.
  • Keeping tubers covered prevents greening. Potatoes exposed to sunlight turn green, causing the flesh to taste bitter.
  • Feed potato plants regularly throughout the season with a liquid fertilizer.

Harvesting:

  • New potatoes can be picked when foliage is 1-foot high.
  • All potatoes are harvested after plant foliage dies.

Sow Right!

Spring is here, can I plant my seeds?

seed packet001

Fordhook Zucchini

Planting vegetable seeds depends on your last
average frost date and the temperature of your soil.

Your growing season,  which is determined by first frost (fall) and last frost (spring),  is the amount of time vegetables in your garden have to ripen before a fall frost.

For example:  Medford, Oregon, Zone 8a, Average Frost Dates  Spring 4/25, Fall 10/20. Average growing season 6 months
but Ashland, only 11 mile away…
Ashland, Oregon Zone 7b,                         Average Frost Date Spring  5/15, Fall 10/15. Average growing season  5 months

Check your local Extension Service for frost dates and USDA Zone.
Each zone has different planting schedules for different plants and your local extension service will have this information – often it’s online.  Then check the back of your seed packets. It tells you when to direct sow and days to harvest.

Check Page 7 of the Oregon State University pamphlet Growing Your Own for “Dates for planting vegetables in Oregon”. It’s a very handy booklet.
OSU Booklet_Growing Your Own

Soil Temperatures for Germination:  Soil Temps PDF

 

 

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Gardening Tips

February:  Preparing to plant in the Rogue Valley

wet-soil

Soil: too wet

Grab a handful of your soil, if you can form it into a ball, the soil is too wet for planting and chances are the seeds will rot in the ground. Plant only when the soil crumbles and falls apart after you squeeze it.

Soil pH: Use a pH soil test kit to test your soil. Kits are available at most garden centers. If you soil is too alkaline, above ph7, then incorporate lime into your soil. Lime is best added in the fall, but you can still do this in early spring. Apply Lime early in February, then a week later add in fertilizer.  Both materials should be incorporated into the soil 6 to 8 inches. Wait at least a week after applying fertilizer before planting seeds.

More about modifying soil pH here…
http://www.sunset.com/garden/garden-basics/acid-alkaline-soil-modifying-ph

You can direct sow the following seeds in your garden mid-to-late February, if the soil is no too wet and temperatures are staying above 20 degrees!
Peas, non-enation resistant varieties
Early varieties radish
Spring Spinach
Fave beans
Mustard
Spanish Onions (the most common onion is the USA),

Sow the seeds listed below, indoors or in a greenhouse in February for transplanting into the garden in 6-8 weeks:
Lettuce
Cauliflower
Broccoli
Bok Choy
Pac Choi
Mustard
Cabbage
Kale
Leeks

Article by Carlotta Lucas
Reference: Gardening Year ‘Round, Month by Month in the Rogue Valley and environs, A guide for Family Food Production by the Jackson County Master Gardeners Association
Wet soil photo courtesy of The Sedgwick County Extension Master Gardeners’ Demonstration Garden, Wichita KS

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