Horticulture Report: Indian Hemp Dogbane

Native Firewise Plant-

Plant Name:  Apocynum cannabinum

Common name: Indian Hemp Dogbane

Plant type: Herbaceous Perennial

Height: 3’ – 7’

Spread:   1.5’ – 2.5’
Bloom Time:  July – August

Flower Color:  Cream/White
Exposure: Sun to Partial Shade

Soil Requirements: Moist Sandy to Gravelly

Water Needs: Low to Moderate

Attributes:  Pollinated by Bees, Bumblebees, Butterflies, Flies, Beetles, Wasps, & Moths; Flowers are Hermaphrodite; Supports Bats, Butterflies, Caterpillars; Drought Tolerant

Note: All parts of the plant are Poisonous; it Contains a milky latex which may cause Skin Blisters; Invasive via spreading roots;

Uses:  Rain Gardens; Woodland Gardens; Butterfly Garden; Native Plant Garden; Erosion Control

Native to: NE United States & Canada

Oregon Native: YES

USDA Hardiness Zone: 4 – 9

Report by: Viki Ashford, AGC Member

Photo Credit: Thayne Tuason, CC BY 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0>, via Wikimedia

Horticulture Report: Allium acuminatum

Plant Name: Allium acuminatum
Common Name:  Hooker’s onion
Plant type : Deciduous Perennial Herb
Height: 0’ – 2’
Spread: 0’ – 1’
Bloom Time: May – July
Flower Color: Purple, White, Pin
Exposure: Sun to Part Shade
Soil Requirements: Dry, well-drained; sandy/loamy
Water Needs: Occasional Summer Water
Attributes: Bulblets reproduce easily; strong onion smell; deer resistant; attracts pollinators: bats, butterflies, birds; nectar source for butterflies
Note: Flowers appear on long stalks after leaves have died; goes dormant in summer after going to seed
Uses: Rock Garden; Dry Open Meadows; Habitat Restoration; Green Roof
Native to:  Western United States
Oregon Native: YES
USDA Hardiness Zone 5 – 9

Garden of the Month: August 2024

600 Liberty St

Cleome, peonies, and Japanese maples line the walkway to the front door.  Photo by Tim MacCurdy

Tim MacCurdy started gardening at 600 Liberty St in 2018 and this is now the Ashland Garden Club’s Garden of the Month for August 2024. He lives here with his wife, Tricia, and son, Luca. When they first purchased the house there was little in the yard except a few trees. Now it is dense with food and ornamentals.

Cleome and echinacea, with yuzu in the background.  Photo by Tim MacCurdy.


Tim has had an interest in gardening since he was a child, growing up in Atascadero California where his father inspired hard work on the family acreage. A kindergarten teacher, whose husband was on the botany faculty at Cal Poly, also encouraged Tim’s interest in plants to the point where Tim was known as the “flower boy” to other students and their families. Later Tim earned a degree at UC Berkeley in environmental sciences. When he was newly graduated, he started his own business tending other people’s gardens.

Lavender and bee balm by the mailboxes.  Photo by Tim MacCurdy.


After world-wide travels he settled in Japan where, once again, his interest in plants and gardens was piqued although his primary concentration at that time was photography. He has plants now that are generations later of seeds he collected in Japan. Since his professional gardening days, he has gone on to pursue a career in medicine and now practices dermatology.

Peonies and ceanothus bloom along the walkway in May.  Photo by Tim MacCurdy.


Tim does all the work himself in this garden. He estimates he averages two hours per day—more from May through September—in the garden and considers his plants (soil and structure) as part of his extended family.


The back yard is steeply sloped. Fruit trees, including persimmon, Asian pears, plums, olives, figs, and yuzu are dotted throughout the property. Among his favorite plants are cleome, nicotiana, echinacea, ginkgo, persimmons, and Japanese maples (some from seeds collected in Japan).  Trees of all kinds have traveled with Tim and his family to homes in different parts of the western states.

Hachiya persimmons hang from the house rafters to dry when the MacCurdys first bought the house.  Photo by Tim MacCurdy.

Given current climate conditions, Tim encourages gardeners to lean toward drought-tolerant plants. You should find “clues from your environment” and love your plants. He also suggests that you don’t always have to follow the rules of gardening and garden design, but instead you “should make your own rules.” He says, “engage with your garden, truly engage. Dedicate yourself to knowledge and spirit, and become an expert.”

Cleome and purple Shiso.  Photo by Tim MacCurdy.

Article by Ruth Sloan, AGC Garden of the Month Chair

Planting for Drought Tolerance & Deer Resistance in the Rogue Valley

 Article By: Christie Mackison, Shooting Star Nursery

Destructive deer and hot, dry summers are two very common issues in the Rogue Valley. Drought tolerant and deer resistant plants are a good combination to aim for because the qualities in plants that repel deer can often be found in drought tolerant species- such as heavy oil content, textured or hairy foliage, strong odors, and tough, less succulent leaves. The key to keeping drought tolerant plants happy and more unpalatable to deer is to give them the habitat they are used to- so don’t water them every day just because its 90 degrees!

Good drainage is usually essential- if you don’t have it, you’ll probably have to water even less

No heavy fertilizing: Use only organic or slow release fertilizer if called for at time of planting. Over fertilizing will attract deer. If the plants look yellow it is usually from too much water, not lack of fertilizer.

Dedicate an area to drought tolerant plants: Don’t mix plants that need regular water with drought tolerant plants. Do not put them on the same irrigation system & timer or one group will suffer.

Do not over water! It’s best to plant drought tolerant plants in early spring or early fall so they can get established with the rains.

  • Once established many plants do not need summer water.
  • They will only need an occasional deep soak.
  • Don’t plant them where they will get extra water from lawn areas or runoff from other irrigated areas.

 How to get good drainage:

Mound up soil when making new beds or planting a new plant. Create a berm. Plant drought tolerant plants on a hillside or slope

Mulch with at least a 1″ layer of 1/4″-io gravel to keep dirt from rotting the crown of plant, to retain moisture during heat and keep plant roots warmer in winter

For clay soil amend with 1/4″- io gravel (sharp edge, no fines) and compost will help break down clay over time.

 How to water drought tolerant plants

Observe- most plants need to dry out before the next watering- stick your finger a few inches into soil (well below mulch, which will feel dry), if it is cool and damp, don’t need to water yet.

Infrequent But Deep Soak: This trains plants to have deep roots, not shallow. Often a deep soak every 2 weeks in heat of summer is enough- easier to do with drip irrigation than sprinklers

Watering rule of thumb (depends on site and soil type)

  1. 1st year of planting water deeply once a week for first month of summer,
  2. Then water once every 2 weeks for 2nd and 3rd month of summer
  3. Water once a month the 2nd summer and don’t water again.

 How to find drought tolerant plants

Look to natives- can tolerate summer drought and winter wet

Look to Mediterranean plants- similar climate (also cold hardy Australian and northern California plants, hardy desert plants/succulents) get help from your local nursery!- we’ve talked to countless customers and worked in our own gardens and have seen what works

How to find deer resistant plants

  • Look around your neighborhood drive or walk around heavy deer areas- Jacksonville, hills of east Medford, wooded parts of Ashland- observe what has been chewed- deer can be very neighborhood specific
  • Read lists, but be ready to experiment
  • use Liquid Fence, Plantskydd, or similar product on all new plantings to discourage initial browsing
  • Use cages around most new trees- to prevent antler damage and new growth chewing
  • Deer damage can depend on time of year you plant- when deer are especially hungry in fall and winter they can graze on almost anything
  • Use poisonous, strongly scented or sharply textured plants (grasses, sometimes prickly/thorny textures, fuzzy/hairy leaves, pine needles, etc.)
  • Talk to your local nursery- we know from our experiences and those of our customers and landscapers what has worked and what hasn’t

Planting for Drought Tolerance and Deer Resistance

Article By: Christie Mackison, Shooting Star Nursery

Destructive deer and hot, dry summers are two very common issues in the Rogue Valley. Drought tolerant and deer resistant plants are a good combination to aim for because the qualities in plants that repel deer can often be found in drought tolerant species- such as heavy oil content, textured or hairy foliage, strong odors, and tough, less succulent leaves. The key to keeping drought tolerant plants happy and more unpalatable to deer is to give them the habitat they are used to- so don’t water them every day just because its 90 degrees!

Drought Tolerant Plants:

No heavy fertilizing: Use only organic or slow release fertilizer if called for at time of planting. If the plants look yellow it is usually from too much water, not lack of fertilizer. Plus over fertilizing will attract deer.

Dedicate an area to drought tolerant plants: Don’t mix plants that need regular water with drought tolerant plants. Do not put them on the same irrigation system & timer or one group will suffer.

Do not over water! It’s best to plant drought tolerant plants in early spring or early fall so they can get established with the rains.

Once established many plants do not need summer water. They will only need an occasional deep soak.
Don’t plant them where they will get extra water from lawn areas or runoff from other irrigated areas.

Good drainage is usually essential but if you don’t have it, you’ll probably have to water even less.

How to get good drainage:

Mound up soil when making new beds or planting a new plant. Create a berm. Plant drought tolerant plants on a hillside or slope.

Mulch with at least a 1″ layer of 1/4-inch gravel to keep dirt from rotting the crown of plant, it helps retain moisture during heat and keep plant roots warmer in winter.

For clay soil amend with 1/4 inch gravel (sharp edge, no fines) and compost, it will help break down clay over time.

 How to water drought tolerant plants:

Observe:  Most plants need to dry out before the next watering- stick your finger a few inches into soil (well below mulch, which will feel dry), if it is cool and damp, don’t need to water yet.

Infrequent But Deep Soak: This trains plants to have deep roots, not shallow. Often a deep soak every 2 weeks in heat of summer is enough- easier to do with drip irrigation than sprinklers

Watering rule of thumb (depends on site and soil type):

1st year of planting water deeply once a week for first month of summer,
Then water once every 2 weeks for 2nd and 3rd month of summer
Water once a month the 2nd summer and don’t water again.

 How to find drought tolerant plants:

Look to natives they can tolerate summer drought and winter wet

Look to Mediterranean plants- they have a similar climate to the Rogue  Valley

Also cold hardy Australian and northern California plants,  and hardy desert plants/succulents.

Get help from your local nursery!- at Shooting Star Nursery we’ve talked to countless customers and worked in our own gardens and have seen what works here in the valley.

How to find deer resistant plants

Deer can be very neighborhood specific so look around your neighborhood. Drive or walk around heavy populated deer areas like Ashland, Jacksonville, and in the hills of east Medford. Observe what has been chewed.

Read lists, but be ready to experiment

Use Liquid Fence, Plantskydd, or similar product on all new plantings to discourage initial browsing.

Use cages around most new trees to prevent antler damage and new growth chewing.

Deer damage can depend on the time of year you plant- deer are especially hungry in fall and winter they can graze on almost anything.

Use poisonous, strongly scented or sharply textured plants (grasses, sometimes prickly/thorny textures, fuzzy/hairy leaves, pine needles, etc.)

Talk to your local nursery- we know from our experiences and those of our customers and landscapers what has worked and what hasn’t.

Horticulture Report: Whiteleaf Manzanita

Plant Name: Arctostaphylos viscida
Common name: Whiteleaf Manzanita
Plant type: Evergreen Shrub
Height: 8’ – 16′
Spread: 12’
Bloom Time: January – April
Flower Color: White to Pale Pink – Shiny Red Fruit
Exposure:Full Sun to Part Shade
Soil Requirements: Tolerates a variety of soils from clay to decomposed granite.
Water Needs: Very low; Water no more than 2 times a month once established.
Attributes: Showy red bark; Flowers attracts hummingbirds & insects; Birds & some Mammals are attracted to fruit; Host to some butterflies & moths.
Firewise: NO; Zone 3 – 70’ – 100’ +
Note: Not very garden tolerant, Native habitat is oak & pine forests and chaparrals.
Uses: Native Gardens, Bird Gardens, Bee Gardens, Hummingbird Gardens;
Native to: California & Oregon
Oregon Native: YES
USDA Hardiness Zone: 7a – 9b

Report by: Viki Ashford, AGC Member

Photo from: Las Pilitas Nursery, Santa Margarita, CA; website: https://www.laspilitas.com/nature-of-california/plants/83–arctostaphylos-viscida-ssp-viscida