Horticulture Report: Smilacina racemosa

Plant Name: Smilacina racemosa
Common name: False Solomon’s Seal
Plant type: Perennial, Wildflower
Height: 3’
Spread: 2’
Bloom Time:Mid Spring
Flower: Color White
Exposure: Light to Deep Shade
Soil Requirements: Deep, humus-rich, acid soils
Water Needs: Average to Moist
Attributes: Attracts Bee/Butterfly; Fragrant Flowers followed by Red Berries, Birds and small mammals eat these berries, Easy care, Drought Tolerant, Graceful arching stems
Uses: Woodland Gardens; Native Gardens
Native to: Pacific Northwest
Oregon Native: YES
USDA Hardiness Zone: 4 – 9

born1945_Wikimedia Commons CC 2.0

Report Submitted by: Viki Ashford

 Nurturing Your Plants

By: Sherri Morgan
Garden club members participated in this discussion by stating which plants they fertilize in their own gardens, among those named were:  Annual Vegetables, Flowering Shrubs, such as roses and rhododendrons, Lawns, Perennials (especially when first planted and after division), Fruit Trees and Container Plants.

The Big “3” Explained
Nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, (NPK) are the “Big 3” primary nutrients in commercial fertilizers.  These numbers indicate the percentages of Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potassium by weight in the package.  A mnemonic for remembering what each element contributes to plant health is:

UP (N) Nitrogen –  Nitrogen is considered to be the most important nutrient as it promotes leaf growth and color, plus it is essential in the formation of protein.

DOWN (P) Phosphorus  – Phosphorus promotes root growth, and when in the form of Phosphoric acid, it helps plants set flower buds.  Phosphorus also helps plants with the process of photosynthesis as well as storing energy.

ALL AROUND (K) Potassium – Potassium strengthens a plant’s ability to resist diseases. It helps produce sturdy stems, strong roots, and promotes growth.

There are many different types of fertilizers, both organic, non-organic:  Bulb Food, Orchid Food, Acid Fertilizers, and Balanced Fertilizers, to name a few.  Each package has its own instructions explaining which plants benefit from that particular fertilizer, and includes how much to apply and how often. Sherri empathized, “Read the label; follow the directions for amount and frequency; more is not better!”

Plants do not always need “feeding” every year, it depends on your soil and its health. For instance, clay soil holds on the nutrients better than decompose granite. A good system for fertilizing is:  

  • Apply at the beginning, and then again midway through a growth cycle. Exception for rhododendrons: a member suggested rodies should be fertilized after then bloom.
  • Apply more frequently to rapidly growing vegetables, such as tomatoes, and for container plants, where the nutrients leach out with each watering.

Compost – Compost is nature’s way of fertilizing.  Decayed organic matter, especially in the end, forms humus, which feeds microorganisms that in turn feed the plant.  Leaving your leaves on the ground around trees and shrubs will help them grow well.

Organic Fertilizer – Sherri was asked whether using organic fertilizers was important, considering they cost more, and are “slower-acting” than synthetic fertilizers.  She stated the energy used to produce synthetic fertilizers is high, plus synthetic fertilizers can damage soil health by salt build-up.  They also cause environmental damages when they leach into rivers and the ocean, and into drinking water. Studies have linked overuse of synthetic fertilizers to dead zones in the oceans, increases in certain types of cancer, and birth defects.

Organic fertilizers are derived from organic materials, such as blood meal, kelp meal, bone meal, etc.  These feed the soil microorganisms and help improve soil health.  They stay attached to soil particles, so they are longer lasting, and their action is more like what would occur in nature.

Fertilizers are only accessible to plants when broken down by soil microorganisms, and when in solution, so it is important to water your plants before, during and after using fertilizer.  

BIO: Sherri Morgan is a Landscape Designer and Master Gardener.  She is a member of the Ashland Garden Club and past president of the Jackson County Master Gardeners Association.  Sherri also teaches in the practicum portion of JCMG classes and designed of the fertilizer curriculum.

Horticulture Report: Alpine Geranium

Plant Name:  Erodium reichardii
Common name:  Alpine Geranium
Plant type: Perennial Herb
Height:  6”
Spread:  12”-14”
Bloom Time:  Spring to early summer
Flower Color:  Pale Pink with Deep Pink Veining
Exposure: Full Sun to Part Shade
Soil Requirements:  Gritty, well-drained Soil
Water Needs: Drought Tolerant
Attributes:   Attracts Bee; Deer Resistant; Long Blooming
Note:   Propagate by Seedlings or Divisions
Uses:  Ground cover; Rock Gardens; Pollinator Gardens, Perennial Gardens, Cottage Gardens
Native to: Mediterranean
Oregon Native:  NO
USDA Hardiness Zone:  7 – 10

Submitted by: Viki Ashford, Ashland Garden Club

Photo by: C T Johansson [CC BY-SA 3.0 (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0)]  Wikimedia Commons

Oregon Native Plant: Aralia californica

Plant Name: Aralia californica
Common name:Spikenard, Elk’s Clover, Western Aralia
Plant type:Perennial Herb
Height: 3’ – 9’
Spread: 10’
Bloom Time:June – September
Flower Color:Greenish White flowers, (Dark Purple Berries in the fall)
Exposure: Part to Full Shade
Soil Requirements:Medium drainage; moist
Water Needs: Moderate to High
Attributes:Attracts beneficial insects; yellow autumn foliage; deer resistant
Note: Ginseng family
Uses: Shade Gardens, Fall color, Deer-Resistant gardens,
Native to: California and Oregon
Oregon Native:YES
USDA Hardiness Zone: 3 – 8

Report Submitted by: Viki Ashford

Photos from: Klamath- Siskiyou Native Seeds https://klamathsiskiyouseeds.com/2016/02/19/western-aralia-aralia-californica/

Oregon Native Plant: Dryopteris arguta (Coastal Wood Fern)

Plant Name:  Dryopteris arguta
Common name:  Coastal Wood Fern or Shield Fern
Plant type:  Fern
Height:  2’
Spread: 1’ – 3’
Bloom Time: NA
Flower Color:  NA
Exposure: Full sun, Partial Sun, Full Shade
Soil Requirements:  Tolerates Clay.
Water Needs:  Low
Attributes:  Deer Resistant; Host plant for Orange Tortrix Moths; Drought Tolerant; Evergreen.
Uses:  Ground Cover; Native Gardens;  Pollinator Garden; Naturalizing; Woodland Gardens; Shade Gardens; Border Planting; Slope Planting;
Native to: Pacific Northwest
Oregon Native: YES
USDA Hardiness Zone:  7 – 9

Report submitted by: Viki Ashford

Photo Resource: John Rusk from Berkeley, CA, United States of America [CC BY (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/2.0)]

NOTE:

Orange Tortrix Moths: The larvae of the Orange Tortrix feed primarily on blackberry, dewberry, raspberry, and grapes. They feed on any tender, exposed vine tissue, weeds, and in grapes on the vine. They enter the shoot clusters at bloom time and make webbed nests among the berries. They injure leaves and berry stems as well. In addition to this physical injury, they vector in disease organisms that introduce rot.

Nandina Berries Kill Birds

Audubon Society Arkansas – Article by Jerry W. Davis, Certified Wildlife Biologist, Hot Springs, AR.

“When dozens of Cedar Waxwings were found dead in Thomas County, Georgia, researchers at the College of Veterinary Medicine, University of Georgia, found the cause to be Nandina berries. All the birds had intact Nandina berries in their crops. There was hemorrhaging in the heart, lungs, trachea, abdominal cavity and other organs.”

“Nandina berries contain cyanide and other alkaloids that produce highly toxic hydrogen cyanide (HCN) which is extremely poisonous to all animals. Sudden death may be the only sign of cyanide poisoning and death usually comes in minutes to an hour. “

Read Full Article here: https://ar.audubon.org/news/nandina-berries-kill-birds

NOTE: Advise is to remove Nandina plants from your landscape, or at least, remove all the berries.