Horticulture Report: Ajuga reptans

Plant Name: Ajuga reptans
Common name:  Carpet Bugleweed
Plant Type:  Herbaceous Perennial
Plant Height:  .5’ – .75’
Plant Width:  .5’ – 1’
Bloom Time:  May to June
Flower Color:  Blue
Exposure: Full Sun to Part Shade
Soil Requirements: Moist/Humusy/Well-Drained Soil.
Water Need:  Medium
Firewise: Yes; locate 30’+ from home
Attributes: Showy Flower/Colorful Leaves; Deer Resistant; Attracts Bees, Hummingbirds, Songbirds
Uses:  Groundcover; Containers; Rock Gardens; Spring Bulb Cover.
Note:  Cut Back to Ground after Flowering; Spreads by Stolons.
Native to:  Europe, North Africa, SW Asia
Oregon Native:  NO
USDA Hardiness Zone:  3 – 10

Report by: Viki Ashford

Posted by: Carlotta Lucas

Clemson Variegated Silverberry

Plant Name:  Elaeagnus pungens ‘Clemson Variegated’
Common name:  ‘Clemson Variegated’ Silverberry; Thorny Olive; Silver Thorn
Plant Type:  Evergreen Shrub
Plant Height:  6’ – 10’
Plant Width:  6’ – 10’
Bloom Time:  October – November
Flower Color:  White Flowers followed by Red Fruit
Exposure: Full Sun to Part Shade
Soil Requirements: Tolerates Wide Range of Soils with Good Drainage.
Water Need:  Regular
Firewise: Medium Flammability
Attributes: Deer Resistant; Fragrant, Showy Flowers; Attracts Songbirds & Bees; Drought Resistant; Winter Interest; Variegated Leaves of Green, Gold, Yellow
Uses:  Background Plant; Wind Break; Screen.
Note:  Thorns
Native to:  China & Japan
Oregon Native:  NO
USDA Hardiness Zone:  7 – 11

Report by: Viki Ashford, AGC Member & Master Gardener

Photo from: Oregon State University Dept. of Horticulture https://landscapeplants.oregonstate.edu/node/2132

Posted by: Carlotta Lucas

Southern Oregon Native: Ceanothus thyrsiflorus

Plant Name:  Ceanothus thyrsiflorus
Common name:  Blue Blossom Wild Lilac
Plant Type:  Evergreen Groundcover or Shrub
Plant Height: 4’ – 12’; Creeping Blue Blossom grows slowly 2’ – 3’ high & 15’ wide. 
Plant Width:  5’ – 6’
Bloom Time:  April – June
Flower Color: White, Light Blue, Dark Blue, Purple
Exposure:  Full Sun to Part Shade
Soil Requirements: Tolerates Clay or Sand, but Needs Good Drainage
Water Need:  Low
Firewise: Very Flammable; within Defensible Space, keep individual plants trimmed back with no dead material & separate plants. 
Attributes: Attracts, Bees, Birds, Butterflies, Parasitoid/Predatory Insects; Pleasant Fragrance; Shade Tolerant; Nitrogen Fixer.
Uses:  Ground Cover; Hedge; Bee/Bird/Butterfly Gardens.
Note:  Do Not Fertilize; Tip Pruning maintains compact shape; Remove Leafless Interior Branches to Encourage New Growth; Prune in Dry Season.
Native to:  California & SW Oregon
Oregon Native: YES
USDA Hardiness Zone:  5 – 9

Report by: Viki Ashford

Photo Credit: Hedwig Storch CC BY-SA 3.0 – NC State Extension website https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/ceanothus-thyrsiflorus/

Posted by: Carlotta Lucas

Oregon Native: American Red Raspberry

Plant Name: Rubus idaeus var. strigosis
Common name:  American Red Raspberry
Plant Type:  Semi-Evergreen Shrub
Plant Height:  3’ – 9’; Erect to Spreading
Plant Width:  3’ –  9’
Bloom Time:  April – May; Fruit Matures July to September.
Flower Color:  White to Greenish White
Exposure: Full Sun to Part Shade.
Soil Requirements: Well-Drained, Moist, Loamy Soil
Water Need:  Medium
Firewise: Resistant
Attributes: Provides Food & Shelter for Birds, Mammals; Pollinated by Bees & Birds; Attracts Butterflies; Showy Flower.
Uses:  Erosion Control; Rock Garden; Bird Gardens; Pollinator Garden; Screening.
Note:  Has Thorns; Prune Out Fruiting Canes for Summer & Everbearing Cultivars in Summer After Fruiting – Cut Back Tips of Everbearers that Fruited Last Fall but Leave Rest of Cane for Summer Fruiting – In Late Winter Remove Any Canes Damaged by Winter; Fungal Diseases May Cause Serious Problems that Necessitate Chemical Treatments; Cane & Crown Borers are Serious Pests.
Native to:  North America
Oregon Native: YES
USDA Hardiness Zone- 4-8

Report by: Viki Ashford

Photo Credit: Superior National Forest, CC BY 2.0 https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Posted by: Carlotta Lucas

Mulch on, and don’t fear the aphids

Mulch on, and don’t fear the aphids  by Rhonda Nowak for the Mail Tribune Published Sunday, November 22nd 2020
( In response to a question posed by AGC member Donna R.)

“Listen
With faint dry sound,
Like steps of passing ghosts,
The leaves, frost-crisp’d, break from the trees
And fall.”
— Adelaide Crapsey, “November Night” in “Verses,” 1915

American poet Adelaide Crapsey (1878-1914) did not enjoy a long life — she died in New York at the age of 36 from tuberculosis. Although her poetry is not widely remembered today, Crapsey left an important legacy in the form of her unrhymed, five-line, 22-syllable poems, inspired by her love of Japanese haiku.

Her style has become known as the American cinquain, adopted and modified by many poets of the 20th and 21st centuries. In his 1918 collection of poems “Cornhuskers” (for which he won a Pulitzer Prize), Carl Sandburg published a tribute to Adelaide Crapsey in a section of the book called “Persons Half Known.”

Speaking of the “half known,” I received an email from a reader who wanted to know more about using fall leaves for mulch in the garden (the topic of my column Nov. 8). Donna wrote, “I appreciate the benefits of mulching. However, no one seems to include aphids in these discussions, only beneficial insects. What is the life cycle for aphids and does mulching encourage their overwintering?”

I replied to Donna that aphids do, indeed, overwinter in our garden, usually in the egg phase of their development. Although leaf litter provides shelter for aphids, most of the approximately 5,000 known species of aphids lay eggs on the leaves and stems of specific host plants. For example, Donna’s aphid nemesis is the lupine aphid (Macrosiphum albifrons), and my roses are sometimes plagued by a different species called rose aphids (Macrosiphum rosae).

Other aphids prefer vegetable crops for their host plants, such as cabbage aphids (Brevicoryne brassicae) and turnip aphids (Lipaphis erysimi).

In the spring, only female aphids hatch from overwintered eggs, and they begin reproducing one week later. During most of the year, female aphids reproduce asexually through a process called parthenogenesis, whereby they give birth to miniature replicas of themselves rather than laying eggs. During one season, some aphid species can produce up to 41 generations of offspring, each insect living 20 to 40 days and producing between 50 and 100 babies.

Most aphids live out their lives on their host plants. Later in the summer, some adults will develop wings and fly off to visit other plant species, but subsequent generations of females will return to their host plant species in the fall. By then, some aphids have developed into males, so females find a mate and then lay their fertilized eggs on the host plant, or in leaf litter, to start the process all over again.

By layering garden beds with leaf mulch, it seems like gardeners are practically ensuring aphids will not only survive but remain comfortable all winter. However, scientists have found that 70% to 80% of overwintering aphids die before spring due to predation or cell damage. (Keep in mind that leaf mulch also provides shelter to aphid predators.)

Aphids that do survive the winter are an excellent source of nutrition for hungry birds, as well as many kinds of beneficial insects: parasitic wasps, ladybugs, lacewings, hover flies and soldier beetles.

In fact, aphids are not just sap-sucking, disease-spreading garden pests; they’re also an important part of the food chain in a balanced ecosystem. In order to attract our pollinator friends to the garden, we must provide food for them, and aphids and other insects we consider pests fit that bill quite nicely.

Aphid infestations occur when the garden doesn’t have enough aphid predators or when weakened plants are unable to ward off insect pests; thus, aphid invasions tell us that the garden ecosystem is off-balance in some way. We might say aphids are “food for thought” for gardeners just as they are food for wildlife.

Leaf mulch is an efficient use of fall leaves to provide habitat for overwintering wildlife, including aphids. When we see overwintering birds foraging in the garden, we may even be thankful the aphids are there!

Rhonda Nowak is a Rogue Valley gardener, teacher and writer. For more about gardening, check out her podcasts at https://mailtribune.com/podcasts/the-literary-gardener and her website at www.literarygardener.com.

The under-explored vegetable: Daikon Radish

Daikon Radish: There are over a hundred varieties of daikon radishes, but to most people in America this root is a vegetable of mystery.  Daikon radishes are popular in Japan, Taiwan, Korea and China, so in the states it is often found in Asian grocery stores, ethnic specialty stores or growers markets where large Asian-American populations occur.  But, luckily for us, most of Ashland’s grocery stores carry daikon radish year round   

Daikon radish is a member of Brassica family; a cool weather vegetable. This tuber forms a large cylindrical tap root 12-20 inches long and 2-4 inches in diameter. Its root pushes deep in the soil like a giant carrot, but leaves 2 to 6 inches protruding above the ground. Its skin is pale green or all white, similar to a turnip.  The flavor is tangy with a crisp juicy texture, and depending on the variety, it can be a mild to fiery hot, like a horseradish.  Its mildness or hotness also depends on growing conditions and the amount of water it receives during the growing season.

Daikon radish origins trace back to the Mediterranean and Black Sea coasts. It found its way to Japan approximately 1,300 years ago where it became popular nationwide in the Edo period (1603-1868). Many varieties of the daikon radishes are near extinction due to the lack of commercial value, but a few specialty farmers, especially in Japan, are growing heirloom varieties for chefs and these prized radishes can fetch a high price.  But the most cultivated daikon radish for the world market is the Aokubi Daikon, which is a milder sweeter variety.  Japan produces 90% of the worlds Daikon radish crop, and they consume most of this crop as well.

In the United States there is growing interest to use daikon radish as a winter cover crop. Some of this crop is used for consumption, but most of it is plowed under to add nitrogen to the soil.  Purdue University reports that daikon radish as a winter cover crop suppresses weeds in fall and winter, helps break up compacted soil, and because its contains a lot of water, it decomposes in a short period of time providing a flush of nitrogen for early spring crops.

Daikon radish can be consumed raw, cooked, or pickled. You can shred it to use in salads for a crisp crunchy texture and a peppery bite. You can add thin slices into miso soup, or braise it in thick chunks for stews. Boiling daikon chunks in water for 30 minutes then adding to a recipe allows the radish to absorb the flavors of the dish. Amazingly, this root holds its shape and texture after an hour of cooking.   The tops are edible too; sauté in oil until wilted then add seasonings.  Daikon Radish seeds are readily available because daikon radish mico-greens are popular.  

To start your sprouts, soak seeds in a bowl of cool water for 6 hours, or overnight, making sure seeds are submersed. This softens the seed coat and promotes germination. Grow as mico-greens, or sow directly into the garden for mature vegetables.  OSU Department of Horticulture states in Oregon daikon radishes require a full growing season to reach maturity and for the best root quality and development irrigate well to maintain uniform, vigorous growth.    USDA Hardiness Zone 2-11

Daikon Radish Salad –   https://www.japancentre.com/en/recipes/1313-daikon-salad

Miso Soup https://www.japancentre.com/en/recipes/1534-daikon-radish-and-abura-age-fried-tofu-miso-soup

Article by: Carlotta Lucas