Horticulture Report: February 2011

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Deer Proof Plants: The following are summaries of perennials from the book:
50 Beautiful Deer-Resistant Plants: Thee Prettiest Annuals,
Perennials, bulbs and shrubs that Deer Don’t Eat
by Ruth Clausen
(May 30, 2011)

Perennials Part 1 –AZURE MONKSHOOD (Aconitum carmichaelii)

All parts of this plant especially the roots are poisonous. Monkshhood grow 2 to 3 feet tall and have deeply cut leaves and dark blue spikes of flowers. It grows in the sun or light shade in zones 3-7 and the tuberous roots can be divided in the fall. Be very careful not to get the sap on your skin. This plant is also known as wolfs bane, tiger bane and leopard’s bane.

BIGROOT CRANESBILL GERANIUM (Geranium macrorrhizum)

This plant is a low maintenance ground cover covered with 1-2 inch flowers.The leaves are a light fuzzy light green.It has a scent when any part of the plant is bruised which the deer hate but which in Europe is used in skin care products.

BLUE FALSE INDIGO (Baptisia australis)
Blue false indigo is drought tolerant and almost totally pest and disease free.Plant it in a sunny area in well drained not too rich soil.It grows 3-4 feet tall in zones 3-9.It is a good mixture with yarrow or salvias butterfly bush and Russian sage The seeds are poisonous to deer.

CUSHION SPURGE (euphorbia polychroma) The genus Euphorbia has some 2,000 or more plants all of which are more or less avoided by deer.When working around Euphorbias wear long sleeves and gloves and avoid contact with the skin as it can cause dermatitis. Do not get sap in the eyes. Cushion Spurge makes neat rounded mounds of light green leafy stems topped in the spring by chartreuse flowers which are surrounded byyellow bracts.Plant it in light shade and cut back after flowering.It tolerates drought conditions very well.

FRINGED BLEEDING HEART (Dicentra eximia) The fringed bleeding heartis similar to the common bleeding heart but the plants are lower growing and bloom repeatedly through the season.Their fernlike foliage remains good-looking through hot days.It likes shady gardens and does well with astilbes, wild geraniums and fernsespecially Japanese painted fern.They are completely deer resistant due to their poisonous sap.

ASTILBE (Astilbe arendsii) Astilbes are wonderful when massed together and grown in part shade moist soil which is high in humus.Deer apparently don not like the fern like texture of astilbe leaves.The colors range from white to red to all shades of pink.They make good, long lasting flowers {cut when half open) for arrangements.After the flowers have faded on the plantyou can let them stay on to provide decorative value.

HYBRID SAGE Salvia sylvestris) Sages include both ornamental as well as culinary herbs} Butterflies and hummingbirds are attracted to the flowers whereas deer are repelled by their smell. Sage is best grown in well-drained soil in full sun. ‘May Night’ Sage which has spikes of violet blue flowers was named the Perennial Plant in 1997.

JAPANESE SPURGE (Pachysandra terminalis) Japanese Spurge is a ground cover just called Pachysandra.As a ground cover plant it 6-12 inches apart in light or full shade in humus rich, well drained but moist soil.It has no equal as a ground cover in full shade under tall trees (even black walnut)However do not plant spring bulbs with it as it is a greedy plant.

By Mary Ann Wallace and Gena Goddard

Garden Beet Newsletter

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Newsletter of the Jackson County Master Gardener™ Association
Read here: Garden Beet Newsletter-January 2012
Read here: Garden Beet Newsletter- February 2012

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A reminder- If your roses had blackspot last year now is the time to spray dormant plants with a mixture of sulfur and horticultural oil. The oil helps the sulfur cling to the canes during the rainy season, plus it kills overwintering pests. Spray only leafless canes. Repeat spray in the spring before new leaves appear.

Carlotta Lucas
Blog Editor

 

Ready Your Greenhouse!

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It time to get your greenhouseready for February planting.

  • Make sure the shelves are clean (use a bit of bleach mixed with water)
  • Wash your trays too
  • Purchase your seedling mix
  • Have a gentle water source ready
  • Assemble plant labels and permanent markers in your greenhouse

Let’s use May 1st as the last frost date, so February 16th will be 10 weeks until then: Fill your trays with seedling mix, water them thoroughly, and let them sit until the next day to warm up. You can now plant cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, brussel sprouts, beets, lettuce, cilantro and spinach.

Here is a list of flowers you can also plant in February in your GREENHOUSE; they need 8-12 weeks before the last frost date.

Petunias, impatiens, lobelia, lupine, echinacea, rudbeckia, coreopsis, salvia, lavender, scabies, delphinium, pansies, shasta daisy, forget me nots, gaillardias, nasturtiums…to name a few.

Make sure you read the package instructions of each plant.

When your GARDEN SOIL is ready, not too wet and breaks apart in your hands like chocolate cake, DIRECTLY SOW : peas, radishes, arugula and carrots. Transplant your greenhouse plants into individual pots, then hardened them off, after this you can plant them into your garden. There is no thinning this way and you get to put the plants exactly where they will grow for the season.

Keep your plants watered, the cold air will suck out the moisture if not watered. You can heat your greenhouse with a bathroom heater if you have no other heat, that’s what I do. You can also purchase a heating mat from a garden supply company.

Melody Jones

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Hardening off… “exposing your seedlings to outside conditions incrementally, over the course of six to fourteen days, depending on your patience, the temperature and the fragility of your seedlings.”….. Read more on how to harden off plants here:
http://Hardeningoff.htm
Link

Consulting “Old” References? Beware

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The article below came from the November/December 1993 Fine Gardening magazine, “Letters to the Editor.”
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Words of Warning: if you are going to consult “old” references be sure & check their accuracy for today’s growing conditions. This letter recommends Pampas Grass, which is classified as an invasive species under current gardening research. I agree with what the author says about red fountain grass, but NOT the pampas. Granted, this was for the southwest, but checking current resources is always wise. As a buyer & gardener, beware.

Good gardening, Viki Ashford
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Fine Gardening Article: Ornamental Grasses for the Southwest

“ In response to the request from Paul Endres for suitable ornamental grasses for the Southwest (FG #32, P. 6), I’d like to suggest red fountain grass (Pennisetum setaceum ‘Rubrum’) and pampas grass (Cortaderia selloana), which I’ve successfully grown in my Las Vegas, Nevada, garden . With an occasional watering from my drip irrigation system, they tolerate heat and drought, and their swaying flower plumes and slender leaves lend grace to the landscape.
(invasive species now)

The leaves of red fountain grass, which grows 4 ft. to 6 ft. tall, are almost maroon in color. In winter, the grass goes dormant, and I cut it down to about 10 in. above the ground. Don’t worry if it appears dead all winter; the leaves will return in spring with the same beautiful show. Pampas grass needs lots of room, because it grows quite tall and forms a fountain of narrow leaves. The plumes, borne atop tall stalks, are a feathery white. A word of warning: the leaves of both of these grasses are sharp, so wear gloves, long sleeves and long pants when planting or pruning them.” Author: Karen Kampfer, Nevada

GROW YOUR OWN SPROUTS

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During the winter months when our local Grower’s Market is not available, it’s fun to grow your own sprouts.There are other ways to do it, in glass jars, for instance, but here’s mine.First, I buy sunflower seeds (other types of seeds are also available) in the bulk food section at local grocery stores like Shop ‘n Kart or Ashland Food Coop.Then I use an ordinary planting tray without drainage.

  1. Put about a couple of inches of planting mix in the tray.
  2. Sprinkle seeds sparingly over the mix.
  3. Cover seeds with about another inch of planting mix.
  4. Place tray on a small table near a window and preferably near a furnace heating vent.The sprouts will think it’s summer.
  5. Water lightly with a watering can as needed.
  6. Turn the tray as needed when sprouts lean toward the light.
  7. Harvest with kitchen shears when sprouts are the height you like.Mine take about twelve days.
  8. Store sprouts in a plastic bag in the refrigerator, then use in salads, sandwiches, or whatever appeals to you.Delicious!
  9. Compost tray remains, and start over for a constant supply of nutritious sprouts.

Enjoy, Marjorie Hoeft

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A few suggested uses:

Raw snack
In salads
Inside tortilla or tacos
A powerful green juice
Sprinkle on soups, or pizza, before serving, as a topping
In sandwiches

…Carlotta Lucas