Horticulture Report: February 2011

Deer Proof Plants: The following are summaries of perennials from the book:
50 Beautiful Deer-Resistant Plants: Thee Prettiest Annuals,
Perennials, bulbs and shrubs that Deer Don’t Eat

by Ruth Clausen
(May 30, 2011)

Perennials Part 1 –AZURE MONKSHOOD (Aconitum carmichaelii)

All parts of this plant especially the roots are poisonous. Monkshhood grow 2 to 3 feet tall and have deeply cut leaves and dark blue spikes of flowers. It grows in the sun or light shade in zones 3-7 and the tuberous roots can be divided in the fall. Be very careful not to get the sap on your skin. This plant is also known as wolfs bane, tiger bane and leopard’s bane.

BIGROOT CRANESBILL GERANIUM (Geranium macrorrhizum)

This plant is a low maintenance ground cover covered with 1-2 inch flowers.The leaves are a light fuzzy light green.It has a scent when any part of the plant is bruised which the deer hate but which in Europe is used in skin care products.

BLUE FALSE INDIGO (Baptisia australis)
Blue false indigo is drought tolerant and almost totally pest and disease free.Plant it in a sunny area in well drained not too rich soil.It grows 3-4 feet tall in zones 3-9.It is a good mixture with yarrow or salvias butterfly bush and Russian sage The seeds are poisonous to deer.

CUSHION SPURGE (euphorbia polychroma) The genus Euphorbia has some 2,000 or more plants all of which are more or less avoided by deer.When working around Euphorbias wear long sleeves and gloves and avoid contact with the skin as it can cause dermatitis. Do not get sap in the eyes. Cushion Spurge makes neat rounded mounds of light green leafy stems topped in the spring by chartreuse flowers which are surrounded byyellow bracts.Plant it in light shade and cut back after flowering.It tolerates drought conditions very well.

FRINGED BLEEDING HEART (Dicentra eximia) The fringed bleeding heartis similar to the common bleeding heart but the plants are lower growing and bloom repeatedly through the season.Their fernlike foliage remains good-looking through hot days.It likes shady gardens and does well with astilbes, wild geraniums and fernsespecially Japanese painted fern.They are completely deer resistant due to their poisonous sap.

ASTILBE (Astilbe arendsii) Astilbes are wonderful when massed together and grown in part shade moist soil which is high in humus.Deer apparently don not like the fern like texture of astilbe leaves.The colors range from white to red to all shades of pink.They make good, long lasting flowers {cut when half open) for arrangements.After the flowers have faded on the plantyou can let them stay on to provide decorative value.

HYBRID SAGE Salvia sylvestris) Sages include both ornamental as well as culinary herbs} Butterflies and hummingbirds are attracted to the flowers whereas deer are repelled by their smell. Sage is best grown in well-drained soil in full sun. ‘May Night’ Sage which has spikes of violet blue flowers was named the Perennial Plant in 1997.

JAPANESE SPURGE (Pachysandra terminalis) Japanese Spurge is a ground cover just called Pachysandra.As a ground cover plant it 6-12 inches apart in light or full shade in humus rich, well drained but moist soil.It has no equal as a ground cover in full shade under tall trees (even black walnut)However do not plant spring bulbs with it as it is a greedy plant.

By Mary Ann Wallace and Gena Goddard

Deer Resistant Perennials

Due to our lush landscaped yards, Ashland is the deer’s “breadbasket”. Deer are browsers. They consume their total food intake in many different locations throughout the night and they eat an estimated 6 to 8 lbs. of green leaves, stems, flowers, fruits and buds of woody plants a day.

One way to diminish the severity of deer damage is to select plants considered to be “deer resistant”. The pictures below are a few deer resistant plants growing in my unfenced front yard. We have 2-4 deer resting in our front yard nightly and to date these plants have never been damaged. Please remember “resistant” does not mean deer won’t ever eat these plants! Deer seem to change their food preferences every year, and fawns in particular like to taste test everything just to check out if it’s palatable. Good Luck!

Salvia Microphylla – Hot Lips
Height: 2 to 3 feet
Spread: 1 to 2 feet
Bloom Time: August – October
Bloom Color: Bi-color white & Red
Sun: Full sun to part shade
Water: Medium to low
USDA Zone: 7 to 9

Perennial

Salvia Elegans- Pineapple Sage
Height: 3 to 4 feet
Spread: 2 to 3 feet
Bloom Time: August – October
Bloom Color: Red
Sun: Full sun
Water: Medium to low
USDA Zone: 8 to 11
Considered an annual in our area but can winter over.
Hummingbirds love this flower!

Penstemon BarbatusBearded Tongue or Beardlip Penstemon
Height: 2 to 3 feet
Spread: 1 to 1.5 feet
Bloom Time: June until frost
Bloom Color: varies (Red, Purple, White, Pink)
Sun: Full sun
Water: medium
USDA Zone: 4 to 8
Perennial

Crocosmia “Lucifer”
Height: 2 to 4 feet
Spread: 1 to 2 feet
Bloom Time: June – August
Bloom Color: Scarlet red
Sun: Full sun to part shade
Water: Medium
USDA Zone: 5 to 9
Perennial

List of Other Deer Resistant Perennials ( Seldom Damaged)

  • African Lily: Agapanthus sp.
  • Asparagus: Asparagus officinalis
  • Aster: Aster sp.
  • Astilbe: Astilbe sp.
  • Baby’s Breath: Gypsophila sp.
  • Beebalm: Monarda didyma
  • Black-Eyed Susan: Rudbeckia sp.
  • Blazing Star: Liatris sp.
  • Bugloss: Anchusa sp.
  • Butterfly Weed: Asclepias tuberosa
  • Candytuft: Iberis sempervirens
  • Cardinal Flower: Lobelia sp.
  • Carnation: Pinks Dianthus sp.
  • Columbine: Aquilegia sp.
  • Common Yarrow: Achillea millefolium
  • Coralbells: Heuchera sp.
  • Crocosmia: Croscosmia sp.
  • Cyclamen: Cyclamen sp.
  • Feverfew: Chrysanthemum parthenium
  • Foam Flower: Tiarella cordifolia
  • Foxglove: Digitalis grandiflora
  • Gas Plant: Dictamus alba
  • Goldenrod: Solidago sp.
  • Hardy Geranium: Geranium macrorrhizum
  • Heartleaf Bergenia: Bergenia sp.
  • Hens and Chickens: Sempervivum sp.
  • Iris: Iridaceae
  • Jacob’s Ladder: Polemonium caeruleum
  • Japanese Anemone: Anemone x hybrida
  • Ladys’ Mantle: Alchemilla sp.
  • Germanders: Teucrium
  • Lavender: Lavandula
  • Bergamont: Monarda fistulosa
  • Lemon balm: Melissa officinalis
  • Peppermint: Mentha × piperita
  • Spearmint: Mentha spicata.
  • Lance Coreopsis: Coreopsis lanceolata
  • Lupine: Lupinus sp.
  • Maltese Cross: Lychnis chalcedonica
  • Meadow Sage: Salvia nemorosa
  • Mist Flower: Eupatorium coelestinurn
  • Mullein: Verbascum sp.
  • Oregano: Origanum vulgare
  • Obedient Plant: Physostegia sp.
  • Oriental Poppy: Papaver orientale
  • Patrinia: Patrinia scabiosifolia
  • Peonies: Paeonia
  • Pincushin Flower: Scabiosa caucasica
  • Plume Poppy: Macleaya cordata
  • Primrose: Primula sp.
  • Red-Hot Poker: Kniphofia tritoma
  • Rhubarb: Rheum rhabarbarum
  • Rue Anemone: Anemonella thalictroides
  • Rosemary : Rosmarinus Officinalis
  • Sages: Salvia officinalis
  • Savory: Satureja montana
  • Sea Thrift: Armeria maritima
  • Skunk Cabbage: Symplocarpos foetidus
  • Snakeroot, Bugbane: Cimcifuga sp. (poisonous)
  • Sneezeweed: Helenium autumnale
  • Snow-in-Summer: Cerastium
  • Soapwort: Saponaria sp.
  • Speedwell: Veronica sp.
  • Spiderwort: Tradescantia sp.
  • St. John’s Wort: Hypericum calycinum
  • Stokes’ Aster: Stokesia laevis
  • Swamp Milkweed: Asclepias incarnata
  • Thyme: Thymus Vulgaris
  • Toad Lily: Tricyrtis hirta
  • Trillium: Trillium sp.
  • Trout Lily: Erythronium
  • Violets: Viola sp.
  • Virginia Bluebells: Mertensia virginica
  • White Boltonia: Boltonia asteroides
  • White Snakeroot: Eupatorium rugosum (poisonous)
  • Yarrow: Achillea filipendulina
  • Yellow Wax-Bells: Kirengeshoma palmata

Timely Tips for Dividing Plants

·Study the plant you wish to divide. Is it a good candidate for root division?Does it grow from the outside of its root clump? Does it make new bulbs? Does it make suckers?

·Figure out where you want to put the divisions and prepare ground, have pots and soil ready.

·Use shovel to dig around the plant to be removed. Use spading forks to lift and separate the clumps. With offshoots use clippers to cut umbilical root.Cut 1/3 tops off. For roots to be separated, wash off dirt enough to see where the eyes, plantlets are so each new division has new growth.

·Keep moist and plant soon in new location. Fertilize every other week until mid-summer then stop to let plant harden off for winter. Keep well weeded and mulched.

·For most plants late winter early spring is the optimum time to divide.For bulbs, primrose, iris, divide after bloom.For peonies fall is best.

·You can divide horse radish, rhubarb and French terragon

·Plants not easily divided: needled and non-needled evergreens (azalea, Rhodies, holly, laurel), many trees,blueberry,annuals, some perennials with single tap roots.

REFERENCE:

Secrets of Plant Propagation by Lewis Hill(a paperback)