Article By: Christie Mackison, Shooting Star Nursery
Destructive deer and hot, dry summers are two very common issues in the Rogue Valley. Drought tolerant and deer resistant plants are a good combination to aim for because the qualities in plants that repel deer can often be found in drought tolerant species- such as heavy oil content, textured or hairy foliage, strong odors, and tough, less succulent leaves. The key to keeping drought tolerant plants happy and more unpalatable to deer is to give them the habitat they are used to- so don’t water them every day just because its 90 degrees!
Drought Tolerant Plants:
No heavy fertilizing: Use only organic or slow release fertilizer if called for at time of planting. If the plants look yellow it is usually from too much water, not lack of fertilizer. Plus over fertilizing will attract deer.
Dedicate an area to drought tolerant plants: Don’t mix plants that need regular water with drought tolerant plants. Do not put them on the same irrigation system & timer or one group will suffer.
Do not over water! It’s best to plant drought tolerant plants in early spring or early fall so they can get established with the rains.
Once established many plants do not need summer water. They will only need an occasional deep soak.
Don’t plant them where they will get extra water from lawn areas or runoff from other irrigated areas.
Good drainage is usually essential but if you don’t have it, you’ll probably have to water even less.
How to get good drainage:
Mound up soil when making new beds or planting a new plant. Create a berm. Plant drought tolerant plants on a hillside or slope.
Mulch with at least a 1″ layer of 1/4-inch gravel to keep dirt from rotting the crown of plant, it helps retain moisture during heat and keep plant roots warmer in winter.
For clay soil amend with 1/4 inch gravel (sharp edge, no fines) and compost, it will help break down clay over time.
How to water drought tolerant plants:
Observe: Most plants need to dry out before the next watering- stick your finger a few inches into soil (well below mulch, which will feel dry), if it is cool and damp, don’t need to water yet.
Infrequent But Deep Soak: This trains plants to have deep roots, not shallow. Often a deep soak every 2 weeks in heat of summer is enough- easier to do with drip irrigation than sprinklers
Watering rule of thumb (depends on site and soil type):
1st year of planting water deeply once a week for first month of summer,
Then water once every 2 weeks for 2nd and 3rd month of summer
Water once a month the 2nd summer and don’t water again.
How to find drought tolerant plants:
Look to natives they can tolerate summer drought and winter wet
Look to Mediterranean plants- they have a similar climate to the Rogue Valley
Also cold hardy Australian and northern California plants, and hardy desert plants/succulents.
Get help from your local nursery!- at Shooting Star Nursery we’ve talked to countless customers and worked in our own gardens and have seen what works here in the valley.
How to find deer resistant plants
Deer can be very neighborhood specific so look around your neighborhood. Drive or walk around heavy populated deer areas like Ashland, Jacksonville, and in the hills of east Medford. Observe what has been chewed.
Read lists, but be ready to experiment
Use Liquid Fence, Plantskydd, or similar product on all new plantings to discourage initial browsing.
Use cages around most new trees to prevent antler damage and new growth chewing.
Deer damage can depend on the time of year you plant- deer are especially hungry in fall and winter they can graze on almost anything.
Use poisonous, strongly scented or sharply textured plants (grasses, sometimes prickly/thorny textures, fuzzy/hairy leaves, pine needles, etc.)
Talk to your local nursery- we know from our experiences and those of our customers and landscapers what has worked and what hasn’t.
“Oregon’s Landscape Contractor Licensing Law, ORS 671.510-760 requires anyone who wants to call themselves a landscape construction professional or a landscape contracting business and anyone who wants to perform landscape work to have a valid landscape construction professional license and/or landscape contracting business license. The law states, “no person shall use the title of a landscape construction professional, landscape gardener, landscape contracting business or landscaper, or any title, sign, card or other device indicating, or tending to indicate, advertise or represent in any manner that the person is a landscape construction professional or landscape contracting business unless the person has a valid license.”
Japanese Hori Hori Knife –Used for weeding, digging, cutting roots, dividing perennials, removing plants from pots. Unbelievably versatile!
Nejiri Gama Garden Hoe (Japanese garden hand tool) Narrow end pushes deep into the soil helps with weeding, planting seedlings, aerating the soil, making seed trenches, and breaking up clods & soil.
Hand Plow Ho-Mi Digger (short-handled) A Korean tool that’s an all-around hand-digging tool, useful for planting, weeding, rock-removal and finding irrigation lines.
Felco Pruners – Pruning, quality pruner, replaceable blades & parts, easy to sharpen. Right or Left handed offered. Felco 7: Is a ergonomic heavy duty pruner with a spinning handle, great for people with a arthritic thumb.
Kneelon Knee Pads – Flexible, Waterproof, durable, machine washable.
CircleHoe– For weeding & cultivating close to plants.
Potlifter – Lifts 250 lb – Saves your back when lifting pots or rocks. Also sold: Pro Potlifter for lifting 350 lbs.
Fiskars Softough Mico-Tip Pruners- Awarded the Arthritis Foundation Ease-of-Use Commendation for a design that is easy-to-use for people with arthritis or limited hand strength.
Corona Clipper Razor Tooth – 10″ Folding Pruning Saw – Sturdy, easy to use, easy to store. Lifetime warranty.