Re-Think: WORMS! WOW!

An Information Source for Reducing/Reusing/
Recycling and Beyond

March 2011

Have you ever thought of worms in your laundry room?Wigglers in your office? Or heaven forbid- critters in your kitchen?!Pretty scary thought-right?Maybe not-listen to what I have to say and you might change your mind.

Let me introduce you to vermiculture.Vermiculture is a term used to describe worm composting.Worms eat organic waste and produce some of the best compost around, known as worm castings or vermicompost.During this process worms do an excellent job digesting food wastes, breaking them down into simple plant nutrients. These nutrients are immediately available to plants; something that every gardener (and plant)will love.Worm composting has other great advantages.It can be done indoors or outdoors and even provides apartment or condo dwellers a way of composting when outdoor space is limited.Basically, all you need is a container filled with moistened bedding and of course, worms.Add food waste to the mix and the worms and micro-organisms will convert the entire contents into wonderful compost.Pretty simple- huh?!

Ready to get started?Select a container.It can be either wood or plastic and should be between 8”-12” deep.Simply drill 8-112 holes (1/4”-1/2”) in the bottom of the container for aeration and ventilation (worms need air to survive).The bin also needsa cover to provide darkness for the wigglers and to conserve moisture.If the worm container will be kept indoors a sheet of dark plastic or cloth draped over the top will suffice.If the bin is placed outdoors a solid lid is preferable to discourage unwanted critters and to keep out the rain.Place the worm bin on wooden blocks or bricks and place a tray underneath to catch excess liquid which can then be used as a compost tea for plants.Worm bins can be placed indoors all year round with temperature between 40-80 degrees- ideal to keep worms happy.Any location will work; make it convenient for you.If you will be placing your bin outdoors it can be placed in shed and garages or on patios etc.Don’t place it in direct sunlight and keep in mind that it might need to be moved if temperatures drop below 40 degrees.

Now that you have prepared your bin and have selected a spot to put it, the next step is to provide bedding.Bedding can be shredded newspaper, chopped up straw, shredded fall leaves etc.Toss in a couple handfuls of sand or soil.This will provide grit to aid the worm’s digestive process.The next step is to moisten the bedding.Add water until the bedding feels like a wrung-out sponge and then fluff it up to create air spaces.Fill the bin about ¾ full with the moistened bedding.

Now you are ready for the worms!Don’t be tempted to add earthworms or night crawlers; these are very beneficial in other areas but not as vermiculture candidates.One of the best types of worms for vermiculture are red wigglers.I’ll include a local source for these at the end of this article.

Worms eat many of the foods that we eat.Some ideas on preferable foods for worms are vegetable scraps, fruit peels, tea bags, coffee grounds etc.Avoid meats, oily foods, dairy products or grains.

I have only provided basic vermiculture information here but hopefully it has been enough to peak your interest in starting a worm bin of your own.

Rhianna Simes, OSU Extension Land Steward Coordinator for Jackson County Soil and Water Conservation District, is a source of additional information on vermicultureSchedule an appointment with her and she will share her knowledge on maintenance, harvesting, answer all questions and even give you a tour of her worm bins!She also has red wigglers available for purchase so you can get started!You might also consider reading Worms Eat My Garbage by Mary Appelhof.It is an informative book that offers useful and practical ideas about worm composting and vermiculture.

Now- red wigglers in a bin in the corner of your laundry room eating your kitchen scraps and producingthe best compost EVER, doesn’t sound like such a bad idea after all- does it?!Just think of them as “pets” that your plants will love!

Carla DiFabion,
Master Recycler

Additional information:
Rhianna Simes
Land Steward Program Coordinator
OSU Extension Jackson County Soil and Water Conservation District rhianna.simes@oregonstate.edu
541-776-7371

Worms Eat My Garbage
by: Mary Appelhof

Timely Tips for Dividing Plants

·Study the plant you wish to divide. Is it a good candidate for root division?Does it grow from the outside of its root clump? Does it make new bulbs? Does it make suckers?

·Figure out where you want to put the divisions and prepare ground, have pots and soil ready.

·Use shovel to dig around the plant to be removed. Use spading forks to lift and separate the clumps. With offshoots use clippers to cut umbilical root.Cut 1/3 tops off. For roots to be separated, wash off dirt enough to see where the eyes, plantlets are so each new division has new growth.

·Keep moist and plant soon in new location. Fertilize every other week until mid-summer then stop to let plant harden off for winter. Keep well weeded and mulched.

·For most plants late winter early spring is the optimum time to divide.For bulbs, primrose, iris, divide after bloom.For peonies fall is best.

·You can divide horse radish, rhubarb and French terragon

·Plants not easily divided: needled and non-needled evergreens (azalea, Rhodies, holly, laurel), many trees,blueberry,annuals, some perennials with single tap roots.

REFERENCE:

Secrets of Plant Propagation by Lewis Hill(a paperback)

Fertilizing Roses

When and How
By: Jill Barnard, American Rose Society

WHEN
Fertile established rose bushes immediately after pruning by incorporating organic amendments into the soil.

A.R.S. basic recipe, per bush:

·1 cup bone meal or superphosphate (0-20-0)

·1 cup cottonseed meal

·1/2 cup blood meal

·1/2 cup fish meal

·1/2 cup epsom salts (magnesium sulphate)

Water thoroughly first, then spread the ingredients evenly around the bush, under the drip-line (outer perimeter) of the bush. Scratch lightly into the top 1-2″ of soil and water well again. In warm climates with long growing seasons (January-February pruning and blooms through November-December), a second application is beneficial in early September for fall bloom cycles. About two to three weeks after spring pruning and adding organic amendments, new growth will appear. Chemical fertilizers, whether liquid or dry, can be applied at this time, and will provide an instant food source for this heavy feeding period. How often to apply is a subjective decision, based on the amount of time and devotion you have, but once a month should be the minimum.

HOW Often

How often you fertilize your roses is determined by your rose growing style. Are you a Casual Rose Grower, a Dedicated Rose Grower, or an Exhibitor? Read the American Rose Society’s full article for the details.

Read Article here: http://www.ars.org/pdfs/fertilizer_when_how.pdf

 

 

EPSOM SALT

The following information is from www.epsomsaltcouncil.org

Epsom salt is also known by magnesium sulfate, a mineral plants need to survive and grow.

Feeding your lawn with it can increase the chlorophyll content and improve its ability to synthesize food leading to lush, healthy lawns.

For vibrant plants and vegetables- Plants suffer if they lack nutrients. By adding just a spoonful of epsom salt you can prevent weak stalks and yellow leaves. Sprinkling epsom salt around the base of a plant will lead to big healthy vegetables.

The council claims by sprinkling a few tablespoonfuls around your garden and garbage cans raccoons and woodchucks will stay away and not harm the animals.

The council recommends the following applications:

Houseplants:
·Mix one teaspoon per gallon of water and feed plants monthly.

Garden Startup:
·Sprinkle approximately one cup per 100 square feet. (10’x10’) and mix into soil before planting.

Peppers:
·Apply 1 tablespoon of Epsom salt with a gallon of water as a foliar spray at bloom time and again 10 days later.

Tomatoes:
·Apply one tablespoon per foot of height for each plant every two weeks.

Roses:
· Apply one teaspoon per foot of height for each plant every two weeks.
· Add a tablespoon of Epsom Salt to each hole at planting time.
· Spray with Epsom Salt solution weekly (1 TBSP per gallon of water) to help discourage pests.
· Soak unplanted bushes in 1/2 cup of Epsom Salt per gallon of water to help roots recover.

Evergreens, Azaleas, Rhododendrons
· Apply one tablespoon per nine square feet (3’x3’) over the root zone every 2-4 weeks.

Lawns
·Apply three pounds per 1250 square feet (25’x 50’) or dilute in water and apply with a sprayer. ·Apply six pounds per 2500 square feet (50’x 50’)
·Apply twelve pounds per 5000 square feet (50’x 100’)

Trees
·Apply two tablespoons per nine square feet (3’x 3’) over root zone every four months.

Do Not use on Sage!This herb is one of the few plants that doesn’t like Epsom Salt.

November Horticulture Report by Gena and Mary Anne

The 2010 November Horticulture Report was conducted at Southern Oregon Nursery (SOS) and Ray’s Garden Center (RAYS) by Gena Goddard and Mary Anne Wallace. They report:

Shrubs good for fall color:

  • Stag horn sumac (SOS)
  • Common Snowball (Viburnum) (SOS)
  • Eastern Snowball (Viburnum) (RAYS) $24.99
  • Smoke tree, Royal Purple (SOS) $42.99
  • Nandina (many varieties/sizes)
  • Filamentosa (SOS)) $18.99
  • Dwarf, fire power (SOS) $7.99 (leaves turn very red)
  • Gulf Stream (tall) (RAYS) $39.99
  • “Royal Princess” (RAYS) $24.99
  • Dwarf, Siena Sunrise (RAYS) $24.99
  • Barberry (many varieties/sizes)
  • Crimson pygmy (RAYS) $19.99
  • Lime glow (RAYS) $29.99
  • Royal cloak (RAYS) $24.99
  • Helmond pillar (RAYS) $39.99
  • Yellow leaf (RAYS) $8.99/gal
  • Mahonia-orange flame (RAYS)
  • Arthur menzies (SOS) $13.99 larger, softer more spread out leaf
  • Sweet spire, Itea Little Henry’s Garnet (RAYS) $24.00 shrub good for pots as it stays small (18-24”) full sun


Shrubs good for winter interest, either as accents or evergreens:

  • Boxwood (SOS) from $7.99 can be pruned to topiary shapes
  • Windmill Palm (0-10 hardy) needs sandy soil, well drained, tone Palm fertilizer in spring (SOS) $32.99
  • Holly – Berry Magic (SOS) grows to 10’, does not need mate plant to produce berries. Plants have berries placed along stem.
  • Red twig dogwood (red and yellow stem) (SOS) (RAYS) $18.99
  • Contorted Filbert , wonderful twisted branches $87.99
  • Viburnum davidii, dark green leaves all winter (SOS)
  • Azealas and Rhododendrons
  • Furnlvalls daughter (SOS) $9.99
  • Barberry William Penn (very thorny)
  • False holly, Osmanthus goshiki
  • Wintergreen, ground cover 6” tall (RAYS) $9.99/gal $3.99/4”

Garden tips

  • Do not mulch your peonies, but cut and remove all old leaves and stems
  • Cut back butterfly bush to about 18”
  • Cut back roses now to waist, the later in winter to knee
  • Do not cut back lilac, wait until it blooms next spring
  • Fertilize in-ground bulbs
  • Fall Bloomers
  • Toad Lily (trycyrtis hirta)
  • Japanese anemone
  • Dahlias-tuberose

NOTES:
Wait until either after the first frost OR the middle of November to cut back dahlias.
The greenery needs to feed the tubers, which must harden off after the stems die back.
DO mulch heavily over dahlias after that: Gena mulches, places black plastic over that, more mulch over the top AND a 5 gallon bucket on top!

DO NOT MULCH over peonies after you cut back the frosted stems! They need to sit high and dry and need to freeze to produce!