Happy Soil

Happy Soil
by Denny Morelli
(Notes from a recent talk at Medford Garden Club)

You can’t have good results in your garden if you don’t start with good soil. Top soils are made up of different components including plant and animal residue, moisture, air space and live soil dwelling organisms.

The best thing you can do for your garden is compost, compost and more compost.

Organic content provides food for growing plants, food for bacteria, fungi, earthworms and other beneficial organisms. A total organic content should be at least 6% of the top 4” – 6 “of top soil. It also provides a reservoir for moisture. Organic content also provides temperature stability and weed control.

This water reservoir prevents the tendency of over watering in the summer and the leaching out nutrients in rainy weather. Over watering can be a serious problem as it flushes out nutrients and increases pollution levels in our streams.

The timing and rate of releasing nutrients is important. Organic material helps to control the amount of fertilizer available at any given time. Air space created by the channels made by various organisms provides space for oxygen, moisture and plant roots. Do not rototill. Tilling the soil collapses this delicate structure. It is better to put a layer of 2” – 4” of compost on top early in the spring to let the nutrients sink in.

One problem in planting is that plants are usually planted too deep. Dig the hole, add some compost and plant the plant so it is higher than ground level, creating a small rounded berm. In time it will sink to the level of the ground.

Be careful where you buy compost. Most box store compost may be over a year old and have little nutrients left. Denny’s commercial formula is 40% forest material, including rotted wood, leave, moss and humus; 50% pasture material, including shredded alfalfa, grass and cover crops; 10% dairy goat & chicken manure; and nutrient supplements e.g. seed meal, kelp meal, high protein livestock feed, goat mils and trace elements. Do not use walnut leaves for mulch.

Fertilizers for home gardeners include fish emulsion, which works very fast but needs to be applied often; and Dr Earth, which takes a month to do any good. Be sure to look at the label; a lot of compost has too much magnesium. In the heat of the summer a layer of alfalfa, purchased at a feed store, protects the ground. Denny sells his compost from his farm. Read more here: http://www.ccountry.net/~compost/

Other good sources of compost are Hilton Landscape Central Point and the Grange Coop, who has an excellent compost called Green Planet Compost.

by Emilie Vest

Planting: FEBRUARY & MARCH

FEBRUARY AND MARCH Planting: from Crockett’s Victory Garden

Vegetables:
You can start your seeds of: BROCCOLI, CABBAGE AND CAULIFLOWER
Sow seeds in potting soil; 18 seeds will give you plenty!
Set trays, or 4″ pots, in the bright warmth of your greenhouse or hotbed.
When seedlings are 1″, transfer to individual pots.
Towards the END of the March, move them into a cold frame or protected area to harden off where they will grow more slowly. They will be ready for the open garden in APRIL.As soon as your ground can be worked, plant peas and radishes directly into the garden.Beets are one of the few root vegetables that can be successfully transplanted, so plant them in your greenhouses now. They can be transplanted into the garden in APRIL.

Flowers:
Group1:
Impatiens, Lobelia, Petunias, Scarlet Sage, Verbena, Fibrous-rooted Begonia, Ice Plant, need 7-9 weeks from seeding indoors to planting in the garden.

Group 2:
Ageratum, Sweet Alyssum, Globe Amaranth, China Asters, Bells of Ireland, Blue Lace Flower, Cosmos (yellow and orange type), Dusty Miller, Lupine, Flowering Tobacco, China Pink, Portulaca, annual Phlox, Snapdragon, Stocks and Strawflowern, require a minimum of 6 to 8 weeks indoors before to planting in the garden.

Group 3:
Sweet Alyssum, Globe Amaranth, Balloon Vine, Calendula, Celosia, annual Chrysanthemum, Clarkia, Cornflowers, Cosmos, Chinese Forget-me-not, Godetia, Marigold, Pincushion Flowers, Zinnia and Sunflowers, need 4-6 weeks from starting indoors to planting in the garden.

I’m sure there’s more…..
Happy Planting
Melody Jones

Consulting “Old” References? Beware

The article below came from the November/December 1993 Fine Gardening magazine, “Letters to the Editor.”
——————————-
Words of Warning: if you are going to consult “old” references be sure & check their accuracy for today’s growing conditions. This letter recommends Pampas Grass, which is classified as an invasive species under current gardening research. I agree with what the author says about red fountain grass, but NOT the pampas. Granted, this was for the southwest, but checking current resources is always wise. As a buyer & gardener, beware.

Good gardening, Viki Ashford
__________________________________________
Fine Gardening Article: Ornamental Grasses for the Southwest

“ In response to the request from Paul Endres for suitable ornamental grasses for the Southwest (FG #32, P. 6), I’d like to suggest red fountain grass (Pennisetum setaceum ‘Rubrum’) and pampas grass (Cortaderia selloana), which I’ve successfully grown in my Las Vegas, Nevada, garden . With an occasional watering from my drip irrigation system, they tolerate heat and drought, and their swaying flower plumes and slender leaves lend grace to the landscape.
(invasive species now)

The leaves of red fountain grass, which grows 4 ft. to 6 ft. tall, are almost maroon in color. In winter, the grass goes dormant, and I cut it down to about 10 in. above the ground. Don’t worry if it appears dead all winter; the leaves will return in spring with the same beautiful show. Pampas grass needs lots of room, because it grows quite tall and forms a fountain of narrow leaves. The plumes, borne atop tall stalks, are a feathery white. A word of warning: the leaves of both of these grasses are sharp, so wear gloves, long sleeves and long pants when planting or pruning them.” Author: Karen Kampfer, Nevada

Deer Resistant Perennials

Due to our lush landscaped yards, Ashland is the deer’s “breadbasket”. Deer are browsers. They consume their total food intake in many different locations throughout the night and they eat an estimated 6 to 8 lbs. of green leaves, stems, flowers, fruits and buds of woody plants a day.

One way to diminish the severity of deer damage is to select plants considered to be “deer resistant”. The pictures below are a few deer resistant plants growing in my unfenced front yard. We have 2-4 deer resting in our front yard nightly and to date these plants have never been damaged. Please remember “resistant” does not mean deer won’t ever eat these plants! Deer seem to change their food preferences every year, and fawns in particular like to taste test everything just to check out if it’s palatable. Good Luck!

Salvia Microphylla – Hot Lips
Height: 2 to 3 feet
Spread: 1 to 2 feet
Bloom Time: August – October
Bloom Color: Bi-color white & Red
Sun: Full sun to part shade
Water: Medium to low
USDA Zone: 7 to 9

Perennial

Salvia Elegans- Pineapple Sage
Height: 3 to 4 feet
Spread: 2 to 3 feet
Bloom Time: August – October
Bloom Color: Red
Sun: Full sun
Water: Medium to low
USDA Zone: 8 to 11
Considered an annual in our area but can winter over.
Hummingbirds love this flower!

Penstemon BarbatusBearded Tongue or Beardlip Penstemon
Height: 2 to 3 feet
Spread: 1 to 1.5 feet
Bloom Time: June until frost
Bloom Color: varies (Red, Purple, White, Pink)
Sun: Full sun
Water: medium
USDA Zone: 4 to 8
Perennial

Crocosmia “Lucifer”
Height: 2 to 4 feet
Spread: 1 to 2 feet
Bloom Time: June – August
Bloom Color: Scarlet red
Sun: Full sun to part shade
Water: Medium
USDA Zone: 5 to 9
Perennial

List of Other Deer Resistant Perennials ( Seldom Damaged)

  • African Lily: Agapanthus sp.
  • Asparagus: Asparagus officinalis
  • Aster: Aster sp.
  • Astilbe: Astilbe sp.
  • Baby’s Breath: Gypsophila sp.
  • Beebalm: Monarda didyma
  • Black-Eyed Susan: Rudbeckia sp.
  • Blazing Star: Liatris sp.
  • Bugloss: Anchusa sp.
  • Butterfly Weed: Asclepias tuberosa
  • Candytuft: Iberis sempervirens
  • Cardinal Flower: Lobelia sp.
  • Carnation: Pinks Dianthus sp.
  • Columbine: Aquilegia sp.
  • Common Yarrow: Achillea millefolium
  • Coralbells: Heuchera sp.
  • Crocosmia: Croscosmia sp.
  • Cyclamen: Cyclamen sp.
  • Feverfew: Chrysanthemum parthenium
  • Foam Flower: Tiarella cordifolia
  • Foxglove: Digitalis grandiflora
  • Gas Plant: Dictamus alba
  • Goldenrod: Solidago sp.
  • Hardy Geranium: Geranium macrorrhizum
  • Heartleaf Bergenia: Bergenia sp.
  • Hens and Chickens: Sempervivum sp.
  • Iris: Iridaceae
  • Jacob’s Ladder: Polemonium caeruleum
  • Japanese Anemone: Anemone x hybrida
  • Ladys’ Mantle: Alchemilla sp.
  • Germanders: Teucrium
  • Lavender: Lavandula
  • Bergamont: Monarda fistulosa
  • Lemon balm: Melissa officinalis
  • Peppermint: Mentha × piperita
  • Spearmint: Mentha spicata.
  • Lance Coreopsis: Coreopsis lanceolata
  • Lupine: Lupinus sp.
  • Maltese Cross: Lychnis chalcedonica
  • Meadow Sage: Salvia nemorosa
  • Mist Flower: Eupatorium coelestinurn
  • Mullein: Verbascum sp.
  • Oregano: Origanum vulgare
  • Obedient Plant: Physostegia sp.
  • Oriental Poppy: Papaver orientale
  • Patrinia: Patrinia scabiosifolia
  • Peonies: Paeonia
  • Pincushin Flower: Scabiosa caucasica
  • Plume Poppy: Macleaya cordata
  • Primrose: Primula sp.
  • Red-Hot Poker: Kniphofia tritoma
  • Rhubarb: Rheum rhabarbarum
  • Rue Anemone: Anemonella thalictroides
  • Rosemary : Rosmarinus Officinalis
  • Sages: Salvia officinalis
  • Savory: Satureja montana
  • Sea Thrift: Armeria maritima
  • Skunk Cabbage: Symplocarpos foetidus
  • Snakeroot, Bugbane: Cimcifuga sp. (poisonous)
  • Sneezeweed: Helenium autumnale
  • Snow-in-Summer: Cerastium
  • Soapwort: Saponaria sp.
  • Speedwell: Veronica sp.
  • Spiderwort: Tradescantia sp.
  • St. John’s Wort: Hypericum calycinum
  • Stokes’ Aster: Stokesia laevis
  • Swamp Milkweed: Asclepias incarnata
  • Thyme: Thymus Vulgaris
  • Toad Lily: Tricyrtis hirta
  • Trillium: Trillium sp.
  • Trout Lily: Erythronium
  • Violets: Viola sp.
  • Virginia Bluebells: Mertensia virginica
  • White Boltonia: Boltonia asteroides
  • White Snakeroot: Eupatorium rugosum (poisonous)
  • Yarrow: Achillea filipendulina
  • Yellow Wax-Bells: Kirengeshoma palmata

XERISCAPING- “ It’s all Greek to Me”

XERISCAPING- “ It’s all Greek to Me”

Xeriscaping sounds like a funny term that is difficult to pronounce and has been a horticulture buzz word for a period of time now. But, it is really a combination of the Greek word “xeros” meaning dry and landscape. It was coined back in the 1970s in Colorado when the Denver area was experiencing a period of arid
weather and rapid urban growth. Landscape practices were developed to utilize less water.

Throughout the years since then xericaping has transitioned from high country drought tolerant gardening to encompass water conservation principals. These techniques can apply to many styles of horticulture designs.

Today, xeriscape gardening refers to water conservation through creative landscaping techniques and practices. Here are some principles to consider:

  • Select plants that either grow naturally in your area or plants that require similar growing conditions as native plants.
  • Consider drought-tolerant plants.
  • Silver-gray, fuzzy, small or thick leaves generally are characteristics that help plants save water.

Plant placement is important, too:

  • Hot, dry areas that have southern or western exposure are best for plants that require minimum water, whereas plants that like a bit more moisture do best in northern or eastern facing areas.
  • Be careful not to mix plants that have different moisture needs
  • Improve your soil, ideally with compost, so it will drain quickly and will also store water.
  • Limit turf areas (which are water guzzlers) or replace lawns with less-thirsty plantings.
  • Use mulch which helps retain soil moisture and also acts as a weed suppressant and prevents erosion.
  • Water deeply and less frequently using drip irrigation or soaker hoses to conserve moisture.

The key idea to remember in xeriscape gardening is water conservation. Our earth has a finite amount of water and the demands are becoming increasingly greater. A common-sense approach to gardening keeping these principals in mind can be applied to most garden designs. The Rogue Valley has ideal climate In fact,
I am sure that many of you are already practicing xeriscape gardening and just hadn’t referred to it as that!

I’m including a short list of waterwise plants that will do well in the Rogue Valley but bear in mind that this is just an introduction. I have listed the botanical name first followed by common name. An added bonus to drought tolerant plants is that most are deer resistant! What more can we ask for?!

Grasses

  • Calamagrostis ‘Karl Foerster’
  • Feather Reed Grass
  • Helictotrichon sempervirens
  • Blue Oat Grass
  • Pennisetum ‘Hamelyn’
  • Fountain Grass

Perennials

  • Achillea millefolium
  • Yarrow
  • Agastache various
  • Hyssop
  • Artemisia various
  • Wormwood
  • Iberis sempervirens
  • Candytuft
  • Pervoskia
  • Russian Sage
  • Santolina
  • Lavendar Cotton

Shrubs

  • Actostphylos
  • Manzanita
  • Berberis
  • Barberry
  • Mahonia
  • Oregon Grape
  • Ribes sanguinium
  • Red Flowering Currant

Trees

  • Acer circinatum
  • Vine Maple
  • Psuedotsuga menziesii
  • Douglas Fir
  • Thuja plicata
  • Western Red Cedar

As we go into the growing season consider our landscape water use and ReThink our choices. We can have beautiful landscapes and gorgeous gardens with careful planning and still protect and preserve our precious resource: water.

Carla DiFabion
Master Recycler 2010